Date |
[ 1997: October -
December ] |
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10.19.97 |
I decided that since, for the
time being, the bike is out of service anyway, this would be a good time to address the
extreme lean angle on the side stand and the dragging and damaged center stand. The
parts donor 1963 SuperHawk is still paying dividends; it donated the center stand, the
side stand and, more importantly, the side stand mount bracket. If your SuperHawk leans to the side too
much, check the side stand mount bracket. If everything is still OK, good preventive
maintenance is to make sure that all bolts securing this bracket to the frame are in
place. On my CP-77, the 10 mm bolt (center of the bracket to frame) was
missing. This transferred more of the load onto the bracket when the bike was on the
side stand. Eventually, the bracket got bent and cracked. The bike would lean
so much that tipping over was a danger with a slight provocation.
Nothing exciting about the
repair; remove old parts, clean frame and hardware, install replacement parts. The
only trick is getting the springs onto both the side and the center stands. This is
better accomplished by first attaching the spring at the frame/bracket to side/center
stands and then guiding the assembly into alignment. |
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10.20.97 |
Today, I went parts
hunting. Seals and O-rings were on the agenda, as were the steel 1/4" balls for
the steering head. The O-rings were needed for the oil filter and the oil filter
housing, as well as for the carburator spacers. The seals I needed were for: a) shift pedal
output shaft (in the left transmission case cover) and b) the point cam seal.
I've noticed a small amount of oil seepage at the shift pedal mounting, but more
importantly, some oil had to be cleaned off of the points - some seepage around the point
cam, evidently.
Here, I lift the veil of mystery
from the numbering found on the seals faces, or in the parts book (sometimes). Using
the shift pedal output shaft as an example, the actual seal has the following lettering:
NOK SC 14 25 7. The parts book limits itself to a laconic
14257 (alongside the Honda part number). At the industry level, this is understood
to be: 14mm ID, 25mm OD and a 7mm shoulder depth. This method of notation seems to
be ubiquitous; knowledge of same will save you thousands.
Back to the bike, the steel balls
are going to replace the ones currently in the steering head (there are 19 in each of the
races; top and bottom). It is said that they should be replaced at around 10,000
miles. Suffice it to say that the bearing supply house sold me a box of 100
stainless steel balls for $4.50, saving me close to $50.00 over the conventional
source. The bike turned 10,000 several days ago.
The O-rings are needed
everywhere. Most immediate of my concerns is a possible air leak around the
carb-to-spacer and the carb spacer-to-intake manifold O-rings; the old ones are compressed
into flattened disks and show heat and fuel damage. There is some evidence of an air
leak past this area, resulting in the abnormally high idle from the overly lean
mixture. We'll see... The oil filter O-ring was misaligned by PO and had
ripped then the oil filter was taken apart for soaking and cleaning. |
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10.31.97 |
The oil filter has been cleaned
and fitted with a new O-ring. The primary chain tensioner has been realigned (around
its swivel shaft); the tensioner spring has been examined and found to be OK. The
oil filter shaft thrust washer has been located and installed on the outside of the oil
filter. Finally, the left side cover can go back on, but not before a thorough
cleaning of the gasket surfaces. Since the engine case and cover are both aluminum,
extreme care is needed in cleaning the old, baked-on gasket. Plenty of soaking with
Magical Mystery Oil and careful slicing away with a razor blade. A fine-grit emery
cloth, liberally lubricated, finishes the gasket surfaces to a pristine condition.
If you like digging ditches, don't do it! An oil leak due to old gasket material
left over is better than an oil leak due to uneven mating surfaces.
Anyway, when cleaned off, the
case cover reveals some nicks on the gasket surface - a result of PO prying the case off
with a screwdriver. Nothing major, but needs to be fixed. A very fine flat
file, amply lubricated, and careful operation leaves the case surface pristine. For
the purist - the engine side of the gasket passes the seam of the top and bottom engine
cover meeting point. On my bike, the top case overlapped the bottom by a few
thousands of an inch - the same file removed this imperfection as well.
The rest is easy: cleaned
everything off, removed the old shift pedal shaft seal, lubricated new seal (and the
shaft) with high temp grease, installed the new seal into the case. Next, applied a
thin coat of the high temperature grease to both gasket surfaces, get all the fasteners
lubricated with anti-cease and ready to be installed and proceeded to place the gasket
onto the case. Reassembled everything; left side engine case cover and the oil
filter cover.
Refilled motor with oil, went for
a ride - no leaks! |
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