Progress Report

• Installed the Selenium Rectified from the 1963 parts bike (see 06.20.98, second test).
• Tested the stator output (see table below; values in volts)

Fitted a voltmeter to the battery and went riding.  The results are great.  The table, below, lists readings taken during riding with the motor in the range of 4K to 6K RPM, under load.

Not bad at all for a 34 year old bike.  Almost 400 miles later - no electrical troubles; H/L is ON at all times.  Best output is achieved with the H/L bucket switch set to "ON" and the handlebar light switch set to "OFF."  This engages the output of all three sections of the stator winding. 

The state of the battery has improved (over the course of the next several days worth of heavy night riding) and has gone up from an anemic 11.5 to a more reassuring 12.5 volts at the beginning of a new ride.

Next planned project: solid state "full wave bridge rectifier."

Cleaned and regapped the spark plugs.   Went riding.  Battery died.  Pushed the bike into a service station and put the battery on a charger for 1/2 hour.  Rode home.  Made a resolution to solve the charging situation once and for all.

Stator

Checked the stator winding output leads for continuity - all OK.
Checked for short to ground - no short to ground; the stator appears to be fine.

Selenium Rectifier [SR]

The bike has an aftermarket rectifier; only four plates instead of the OE eight.  The leads correspond to the OE setup - Yellow, Red and Brown terminals.

The following current flow tests were made in two series; the first using the 1964 SR and the second using the 1963 OE SR from the parts donor CB77:

1964 Selenium Rectifier:

1963 Selenium Rectifier - OE

Two things stand out immediately: a) The aftermarket SR gives a reading in Ohms (between leads) vs. kOhms as in the OE rectifier and b) the direction of current has no significant effect on the resistance regardless of polarity.

From what little I know on this topic, it appears that the 1964 SR is gone.  The current is allowed to flow in both directions without any hindrance whereas the 1963 SR appears to be OK, in theory, allowing the current to flow toward the Red terminal (battery) and restricting its flow in the opposite direction.

Tightened the bolt on the linkage lever (mounted onto the shifter output shaft); seems to have taken several percent of sloppiness out of the worn out shifter linkage.

The bike has developed a "stiffened shifting problem," particularly toward the end of linger rides.  This is indicative of some amount of clutch drag and other potential wear in the clutch engage/release system.

* Readjusted the clutch lifter (in the right side case)
* Readjusted the clutch cable; removed about 3/16 of extra slack.

This has improved the situation, although there is room for improvement.  I am planning on opening the clutch up and examining the friction & pressure plates as well as on replacing the clutch springs.

* Installed the steering head Tapered Roller Conversion kit.
* Straight R & R, except that a spacer washer (part of the kit) replaces the lower tin spacer and the rubber biscuit (on the bottom of the steering stem) to become the seat for the lower tapered roller cage.

What a  difference this conversion makes!  No more sloppy steering action and no more of those insane rollers (19 top and 19 bottom) that bounce all over your garage. 

* Drained the fork tube oil overnight.  Refilled with 200cc of ATF (enhanced seal rejuvenation formula).  Recommended amounts vary from 200cc to 250cc (6.8 to 7.1 oz).  Note: this volume applies to the early, steel bottomed forks.  The recommended oil type ranges from "White Spindle Oil # 60" - per Honda Factory Service Manual, to anywhere from 5wt, to 10wt to 10W30 as reported by VJ veterans.
* The left tube showed signs of oil seepage from the seals and with the wheel off, the action of that tube was somewhat "sloppy," with some internal scuffing or roughness?  A rebuild is definitely in order for the left tube; hopefully it can be saved!

With fresh oil, the damping action is greatly improved, although I will probably experiment with higher volume of oil and greater viscosity.  For the next 300 miles I'd like to give the "seal enhancement properties" of the ATF a chance to do their thing...

* Since the H/L was out, I took the opportunity to check all bullet connections within.  Sure enough, several connections were in bad shape - at least two were down to one or two strands of corroded copper wire.

* Resoldered all suspect bullets, cleaning the contacts and packing the connections with dielectric silicone grease in the process.

There is a noticeable improvement in lighting - brighter burning bulbs.  Rode around for about 20 to 30 miles (about 1.5 hours) with the headlight on without running the battery down.  This might indicate that the charging system is OK after all and that the earlier battery drain problems were the result of bad connections within the H/L housing, but a complete charging system test is in order regardless...

* Changed the tachometer cable; installed another used one in better shape.
* Reversed the position of the "O" ring in the tach drive pickup to address oil seepage in that area.
* Installed a used, but better than original speedometer cable.
* Replaced the lower grommet in the H/L housing. [If the original replacement is unavailable, use the Motormite "Help! PCV System Grommet"; Part # 42317].
 

* Set the valve lash; changed the right exhaust rocker adjuster bolt (swap from the 1963 parts bike), but it is increasingly evident that the rocker arm shaft is worn as this rocker is perpetually noisy and always out of adjustment too soon. 
* Adjusted the cam chain tensioner; early signs of rubber roller deterioration. 
* Checked the point gap; no adjustment necessary, points look good w/nice gray color and no pitting. 
* Lubricated the point cam wick. 
* Checked the spark plugs.  The right side had signs of mild fouling (from an earlier rich running right carb).  Heated up the spark plug electrodes with a propane torch - to burn off any residue.  Regapped and reinstalled. 

* Checked the steering head bearings; excessive play. 
* Replaced the upper roller balls and repacked with white lithium grease.  Checked the books later and discovered that the PO reassembled the bearings with 18 roller balls, instead of 19.  I decided to order a tapered roller conversion kit and not to continue fighting with the pesky rollers. 

* Greased every place supplied with a grease fitting.

Time for new tires:  Michelin M38S - 2.75 x18 front, 3.00 x 18 rear.  These are not generally available in the US, but I was able to get several sets (VJMC listserv group purchase). 
* Fitted the new front tire to a front wheel from a donor bike.  The rear tire will be changed later... 
* Adjusted the front brake cable.