You will know the pins are correct when you assemble them back in with the key in the lock and the cylinder will turn.
Go one hole at a time trial and error....when the key will turn go to the next hole.
I would rather use the EMGO switch I referred to in the other thread (#41-37600) than the one you link here. It is rated for 25 amps, and doesn't have open terminals which might ground out on the headlight.
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Latest Registry Entry
1965 Honda CP77 — Ulsan Metro City, Rep. Korea
Restored with original parts — Owner: J. Doe
Ignition Switch Dissection
Re: Ignition Switch Dissection
Hey Dr. Frankenstein...
Big thanks for post your switch dissection pics & narrative! I just did the ignition switch on my 66 CA78. After I got the thing apart I realized I didn't note the placement of the triangular contacts, your pics bailed me out of that mess. The triangles needed light cleaning. The contacts in the bakelite were all good except two that were very dark/burned from being hot I suspect. They cleaned right up with the dremel wire wheel. The balls & springs were like new and required no clean up. I did not take apart the key lock, a drop of wd40 allowed the ket to easily glide in & out. It's back together and in the bike. Thanks!
Big thanks for post your switch dissection pics & narrative! I just did the ignition switch on my 66 CA78. After I got the thing apart I realized I didn't note the placement of the triangular contacts, your pics bailed me out of that mess. The triangles needed light cleaning. The contacts in the bakelite were all good except two that were very dark/burned from being hot I suspect. They cleaned right up with the dremel wire wheel. The balls & springs were like new and required no clean up. I did not take apart the key lock, a drop of wd40 allowed the ket to easily glide in & out. It's back together and in the bike. Thanks!