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hi guys, I started my 66 CA-77 for the first time ion months, warmed it up, kicked it into gear, and took off for a 2 mile ride. the clutch was grabbing a little low I think. when I got back to the house she didn't want to go into neutral. I shut it off and backed out the adjustment on the clutch lever. it then went into neutral fine and shifted into first easy and smooth. I went around the block just to try it and it wouldn't find neutral again. I backed clutch lever adjustment again and it slipped into neutral. problem is clutch lever adjustment is all the way out. suggestions?
also she was idling kind of high when warmed up. how do I lower idle with the screws on side of carb? thanks, Jim
`66 Honda dream
I'm posting this here because its so similar to Nations - I can't seem to find the 'sweet spot' for the clutch adjustment/ the clutch is pulling/dragging when I pull in the hand-lever and its driving me buggy - any tips here? It goes into gear, but wants to move when I put it in first...The manual is rather frustratingly vague on the Exact way to find the clutch Happy Spot. And Yes, I've been adjusting it at both the handle and the engine as per LM's instructions, which are pretty good!
Jim, RE: the carb adjustment (if I recall correctly the carb adjustment screws), the one on the RIGHT control the idle(slide), and the one on the Left controls the fuel...LM, is that right...? I don't remember, the last time I messed with it was last fall before the weather got crappy.
From a 2008 post...……
"Screw both cable adjusters IN as far as they will go. Loosen the bolt (10mm head) and with a large screw driver turn the adjuster right/left/right then move it back (left) 1/8 inch and tighten the bolt. Using the cable adjusters adjust the lever to apx. 1/4 inch free play. ...................lm"
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
Can anyone help me with this? I have tried following LM's instructions but my clutch is still grabbing. Symptom: Bike is running in neutral, but when i pull the clutch lever to shift into first it lurches and stalls. Also, when bike is not running and already in first or second gear, pulling the clutch lever does not allow the bike to roll freely.
Had no problems prior to replacing the clutch cable.
Perhaps the problem lies elsewhere.
The idea of LM's method is to take up all but a small amount of the cable slack with the main adjuster, leaving the inevitable cable stretch and clutch wear to be removed as needed by the cable adjusters. It's the ideal way to do it. However, any combination that leaves 1/4" of slack at the lever will work. If you feel the pull of the clutch when you operate the lever (after the 1/4" is taken up of course) then cable is well adjusted and you should be looking at the clutch itself.
One other thing comes to mind. There is a steel ball inside the adjuster that provides a bearing between the adjuster and the pushrod. If it's missing, adjustment becomes hellish or impossible. If you had the right side engine cover off it may have fallen out.
Tim, thank you for your reply. I think you are absolutely correct. I emailed Mr. Honda Bill Silver and he said the same thing about the clutch plates.
I know the steel ball you are mentioning and I have confirmed it is correctly in place. So I'm going to pull the clutch plates apart, give them a cleaning and reassemble. Hopefully that does the trick.