honda305 Home honda305 Auctions honda305 Gallery honda305 Forum


honda305.com Forum

Login
□ Search
□ FAQ 
□ 
Vintage Honda Owners,
Restorers, Riders and
Admirers

Reupholstering a Honda Dream 305 Seat: A Walk-Through

Post Reply
paperslammer
honda305.com Member
Posts: 144
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 1:53 am
Location: Palo Alto, CA

Reupholstering a Honda Dream 305 Seat: A Walk-Through

Post by paperslammer » Fri May 04, 2012 1:32 am

Alright I'm back ya'll! I've been a bit busy but I finally I had time to reupholster my motorcycle seat.

This is what it looked like before: cracked and dry leather with busted up foam. Overall not too bad, but I wanted to make it look swanky.
Image
Image

I gathered the following items:
  • A: New Seat Cover ($50 from ebay (seller gumtwo))
    B: High Density Foam (15" x 15" x 2" thick and $14 from the internet. I could have also gotten this from JoAnn Fabirc and Craft for a little cheaper I think)
    C: Adhesive Spray (3m General Purpose 45 - $8 - $10 from JoAnn's)
    D: Quilting Batt ($5 - $10 from JoAnn's)
Image

This first step was to take off the leather strap. This involved removing the three nuts with lock washers on each side of the seat (from underneath)
Image

Taken Off!
Image

Next the chrome strip had to come off. You have to unscrew 10 of these screws from around the inside of the seat. Taking these screws off will also force you to take off this random metal part shown below.
Image

This difficult part with taking off the chrome strip is that the nuts are probably rusted on. Also, the heads aren't physically constrained by anything and will just spin if the nut doesn't come loose. So I ended up using a screw driver and the socket wrench to remove the screws. The screw driver put some pressure on the head to keep it from freely spinning. I think maybe 4 nuts came off and the other 6 actually broke the screw from torquing it too hard.
Image
Take note of the screw positions! This will help when putting the screws back in because the holes will be covered!
Image

The inside of the chrome strip looks like this! The heads of the screws slide in!
Image

Now it's time to take off the old nasty leather. Unscrew the little clamp holding some leather down at the front of the seat.
Image

Then start pulling the leather up from underneath...
Image

It comes off pretty quickly from just pulling the leather!
Image

Careful they're sharp and tetnus-y!
Image

Naked Seat
Image

Next I cut into the foam that was cracked - down to the level where I got rid of all the cracked foam.
Image

The I used the high density foam and cut a shape similar to the deepest pocket I made.
Image

To use the 3M spray you spray both the seat and one side of the foam, let them sit for maybe 30-45 seconds so it gets tacky, and then put the two sides together. Then you let it sit for a while. There are directions on the can. Once it dried I cut away the excess high density foam with a blade. The instructions suggested an electric meat cutter...Just make sure the foam conforms to the shape of the original foam.
Image

Next I cut more of the high density foam for the second (and less recessed) cut out I had made. As you can see I oversized it a bit so that it would be a slight press-fit. Again use the spray adhesive to glue the high density foam to the seat.
Image

Used gravity to hold the foam in place while it dried.
Image

And here is the second layer cut to "shape".
Image

After I was confident the glue had dried I turned the whole seat over - CAREFUL! The foam will just fall off the springs. You'll have to support it as you turn it. I took off the old rubber strips because they are OLD AND NASTY. Replacing these will prevent the metal from cutting into the new and supple leather you're going to put around your seat.
Image

Old bike inner tubes to the rescue again! I cut some strips from these tubes.
Image

Rubber on the metal:
Image

Full shot of the new rubber strips.
Image

Turning the seat back over it was time for the quilting batt. This will even out all the bumps from your imperfect cutting job. Fully spray the seat with adhesive as well as one side of the quilting batt. Then place them together, cutting off the excess after it has dried.
Image

One layers was not enough. I think I only put two layers on.
Image

Next I put a layer of saran wrap around the quilting batt. This will help the leather slip on easier.
Image

Now you just have to go for it! Slip the leather on!
Image

Start from the front and work your way back. Punch some holes for the screws of the clamp at the front to fit through. The leather is pre-cut to have a flap here. I also pushed two of the tangs through the leather to hold its place. Make sure to pull the leather TIGHT!
Image

Keep pulling tight and pushing the tangs through the leather.
Image
Image

There will be some tough positions like this one. I used a small screw driver to push the leather on the tang.
Image

A hammer helps push the tangs down easily
Image

Getting close!
Image

Now we have to put the chrome strip back on. Since I destroyed the screws, I went and bought some. These worked!
Image

You have to find the holes in the metal and this is where remembering the general position of each screw with help. I had to push through two layers of leather and bicycle tire rubber with a small screw driver to make a hole. Then I pushed the screw through as a place holder.
Image

There are 10 total screws (5 per side)
Image

Next take all the screws out and slide them into the chrome strip. It will take a bit of wiggling, but you need to put all the screws back through the leather while the heads of the screws are in the chrome strip.
Image

Once this is done, push the chrome strip all the way up against the back of the seat (toward the front of the seat). Then tighten the screws the same way we unscrewed them (with a screw driver putting pressure on the head, as the heads will want to rotate freely again).
Image

Time for the leather strap! Punch a hole in one side and slip it over the center screw. This new strap doesn't have a grommet in it - oh well.
Image

After putting the strap on one side, punch a hole in the other side of the strap and put it over the center screw on the other side. Make sure the strap is tight! Cut off any excess strap.
Image

The end!
Image
Image

I'll put a picture of it on my bike sometime...
'64 CA77 305 Dream

jimpapa
honda305.com Member
Posts: 63
Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:48 pm
Location: Oshawa Ontario

Post by jimpapa » Tue May 08, 2012 8:10 am

excellent job and thank you for taking the time to detail it so precisely.
just about to start doing mine and i thought i couldn't save the chrome strip because of the spinning screw, but now i see it can be done.

conbs
honda305.com Member
Posts: 989
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:29 pm
Location: SW Idaho

Recovering seat

Post by conbs » Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:45 pm

I just finished a recover of my seat. Paperslammer, your walk through was a big help. This was my first recover and I learned a lot. Here are a few of the high points.

First, I repaired some damage to my rubber seat foam with silicone rubber. Cut up a nitrile glove (or saran wrap or ???) to put over the silicone once it is in place and you can easily shape it without getting silicone all over. Make sure to wipe any powder off the inside surface of the glove. First picture shows the result. I used silicone/nitrile glove on the edges of the rubber foam where it was deteriorating to helpfully stop the red dust. I also put a bead of silicone/nitrile glove on the bottom edge of the seat frame to make a cushion so the frame won't cut through the vinyl so easily.

Second, I bought a piece of gel from a vender called Kno Place. I haven't taken it for a ride yet, but I think it will help make a better cushion. They sell kits, but I called them to get a size that would fit into a Dream seat. Great folks. Cut the original bun just like Paperslammer cut his to repair his foam and glue in the gel. Sorry I didn't get a picture.

Third, my seat had been recovered previously and they apparently changed the dimensions of the foam so it was only 23 1/2" long. I didn't realize it until I was ready to put the cover on. The seat covers are 25 1/2" long so I had an issue. I ended up glueing in an extra piece of the rubber foam at the front to make it work. I hope it stays in place. I didn't chase this down, but I think polyethylene foam would be the stuff to use it you are making a new foam bun.

Fourth, the original screws to attach the chrome trim are a 3mm JIS with a really wierd head. The head has to be just the right size to fit into the trim and hold it on. The original nuts are brass and I got all but two of them off of a REALLY rusted donor seat. Nonetheless, I think it is a good idea to replace the screws and I found some 4mm stainless steel button head screws that fit perfectly. The holes in the seat frame were plenty big enough for the 4mm screw. I used some Flitz on the donor seat trim to make it shiney again.

Finally, I bought a cover on Ebay from Gum Two and later found that Pit Replica had one with a bronze logo so I bought one of those also and had the two to compare. Both use a vinyl that has texture to it. GumTwo's has a finer texture, but the original was smooth. The material Gum Two uses is heavier and it looks to be a pretty good cover. I ended up using the Pit Replica cover for the bronze logo, but I am not sure how it will last. The vinyl material is pretty thin. He also cuts his covers shorter on the sides and adds another piece that creates an additional seam about an inch from the bottom. Most of the seam ended up right at the bottom (sharp) edge of the frame. It is hard to keep it even so in some places it is right on the edge, some on the outside and some underneath. There is BARELY enough material to fit over the barbs on the seat frame, but he does finish the final edge with a sewed seam that you can stretch that last doubled edge just past the barbs. Pictures of the front of the two covers so you can compare how much material is on the sides. Final picture is the completed seat.

I hope this will help others like Paperslammer helped me.
Attachments
Pit Replica cover that I used.  It is pretty hard to get this front edge over the two mounting screws.  It barely fit.
Pit Replica cover that I used. It is pretty hard to get this front edge over the two mounting screws. It barely fit.
GumTwo cover.  Plenty of material to work with and the fabric is a little heavier.  But, no bronze logo.
GumTwo cover. Plenty of material to work with and the fabric is a little heavier. But, no bronze logo.
White silicone covered with a piece cut from a nitrile glove.  This allows you to repair damaged rubber foam and you can shape it without making a mess.
White silicone covered with a piece cut from a nitrile glove. This allows you to repair damaged rubber foam and you can shape it without making a mess.
Finished seat.
Finished seat.

Post Reply
cron




 

CB-77 | CYP-77 | Road Test | Riding Log | Literature | Zen | Marketplace | VJ Survey | Links | Home