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removing a second (bad) paint job

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mzogs
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Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 2:40 pm
Location: St. Louis MO

removing a second (bad) paint job

Post by mzogs » Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:35 am

Anyone have any experience removing a second bad paint job and leaving the original paint in place? my red frame cl 77 was a faded orange color when I got it but after further inspection it seems to be a second coat of paint and the original is underneath it. Just scratching it with your finger nail removes the paint. I did a couple small sections with a green scrubber pad and soap and water and was removing the old paint but i didn't go to far, I thought id ask to see if anyone had any experience with this. There was a guy on the fourm that used mineral spirits and and sos pad with good luck but that seems a little abrasive to me , but maybe the old paint can take it?

http://www.honda305.com/forums/color-options-t8540.html

I'll try to post a pic also

mzogs
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Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 2:40 pm
Location: St. Louis MO

pic

Post by mzogs » Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:05 am

pic
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davomoto
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Location: Marin County CA

Post by davomoto » Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:25 am

Graffiti remover, or possibly goof off. Try an hidden area first.

Davo

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:30 am

It all depends on the paint. Some paints, like lacquer, have solvents that soften the bottom layer of paint and really make them into one coat when the solvents evaporate. Cheap enamels should not do this to a lacquer bottom coat. But you never know. If you shoot a second coat of enamel too soon, it will lift the first coat.

If it came off with your fingernail, you could make small scrapers from nylon rod or similar and go at it with those. My guess is that somebody painted it because the paint underneat was bad and you will eventually run into the bad areas. You could try wet sanding with 400 or finer. But I'm doubtful that anyone is skilled enough to not oversand an area on a curved surface and go thru the original paint while working on an area of the new paint.

There was no primer on these bikes so the paint had a hard time surviving unless stored in a warm dry place.

There is a red rattle can paint out there that is just about a dead perfect match to that old Honda red. I'm not home right now and do not remember the brand or number. I want to say it is a Duplicolor enamel. I had a spot on my S90 that was damaged from acid years before I got the bike. I cleaned it up, feathered out the pitted metal with high build primer and wet sanding and then touched up the frame. You cannot tell where the original paint stops and the new begins.

regards,
Rob

mzogs
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Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 2:40 pm
Location: St. Louis MO

Post by mzogs » Fri Aug 10, 2012 9:54 am

I've got some goof off maybe I'll give that a shot

mzogs
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Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 2:40 pm
Location: St. Louis MO

Post by mzogs » Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:05 am

Snakeoil wrote:It all depends on the paint. Some paints, like lacquer, have solvents that soften the bottom layer of paint and really make them into one coat when the solvents evaporate. Cheap enamels should not do this to a lacquer bottom coat. But you never know. If you shoot a second coat of enamel too soon, it will lift the first coat.

If it came off with your fingernail, you could make small scrapers from nylon rod or similar and go at it with those. My guess is that somebody painted it because the paint underneat was bad and you will eventually run into the bad areas. You could try wet sanding with 400 or finer. But I'm doubtful that anyone is skilled enough to not oversand an area on a curved surface and go thru the original paint while working on an area of the new paint.

There was no primer on these bikes so the paint had a hard time surviving unless stored in a warm dry place.

There is a red rattle can paint out there that is just about a dead perfect match to that old Honda red. I'm not home right now and do not remember the brand or number. I want to say it is a Duplicolor enamel. I had a spot on my S90 that was damaged from acid years before I got the bike. I cleaned it up, feathered out the pitted metal with high build primer and wet sanding and then touched up the frame. You cannot tell where the original paint stops and the new begins.

regards,
Rob
What ever it was it didn't bond well, wen you say nylon rod or similar, I'm not sure what you are talking about? where do you find something like that?

By wet sanding due you mean normal paper just wet, or is there something special you use for wet sanding? excuse my ignorance but I've never done automotive painting before.

if you find the name of that paint I would also appericiate that also.

Thaks snake

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