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To line or not to line the fuel tank

Restoration and Cosmetic Upkeep
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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:43 pm

I've tried electrolysis but is seemed a little slow. The best for me was toilet bowl cleaner (dilute hydrochloric acid) followed by phosphoric acid to kill any trace of new rust.

I had a CB250 tank that had been lined badly and the carbs and fuel tap were always clogged with decomposing tank liner and rust. If done properly the liner can save a scrap tank but I would work hard to avoid it.


G
Goodysnap wrote:Vote number 2 for electrolysis method. Worked very well for me but it is time consuming. The bad thing about the sealers is if they fail you have more of a mess than rust to deal with and a virtually unusable tank. I have not used any of the sealers but after the research I decided against it.
Last edited by G-Man on Sat Sep 26, 2015 1:39 am, edited 2 times in total.
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DianneB
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Post by DianneB » Fri Sep 25, 2015 2:16 am

Yes, if you do coating DO NOT scrimp on the cleaning!!! Clean it multiple times, until you think it is clean, then clean it again!

Someone had coated the tank on my Dream and done it poorly. It took me 2 days with strippers, hooked brass rods, and everything else I could think of to get the old coating completely off. In some spots it adhered well and in many it was peeling off.

Merz64cb77
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to line or not to line

Post by Merz64cb77 » Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:25 am

I vote not to line the tank unless it's a last resort.
I've done electrolysis twice with good results, cider vinegar, nuts and bolts, and muriatic acid which works the best but is the most dangerous to work with.
If you decide to line, like others say the prep work is essential to achieve good results or you ll be stuck with a project trying to get the liner out.
The only thing in a gas tank should be gas.
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VickyBlue
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Post by VickyBlue » Thu Oct 26, 2017 10:03 am

Let me tell you my experience with POR15. Used it per instructions, did all three steps in an effort to seal a 66 VW fuel tank. The tank was stored indoors after it was sealed for about a month. With the first 2 days of use with gas, all the sealer flaked and it was coming out as sheets of plastic. Got up to the fuel pump, line and carbs and past the point of no return... Threw away the tank and ended up getting a new one. That was back in 2008. Fast forward to 2013, my new to then 37 Pontiac coupe, had the tank done same way by previous owner. He was very excited to mention it to me in his remarks. First thing I did was to replace that tank. As I was draining the gas from the bottom drain plug, huge chunks of gray "stuff" started coming out, until the flow stopped.
I really like the rest of the POR15 products, but when it comes to fuel tanks, new is always best. Good luck...

Adam2
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Post by Adam2 » Mon May 28, 2018 5:10 am

Good advice, thank you.

old mago
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Post by old mago » Thu Jul 26, 2018 11:21 pm

ive used POR15 for my Matchless tank..its all in the preparation..i used hot water for the final rinse as it evaporates nicely. i did this in 2008 and in 2010 the tank cracked underneath and i had to have it welded....the lining got a small burnt bit where the weld is but it hasnt peeled or anything else and its still a good tank. When i restore my little 72 i will definitely be using the POR15, but like i said you have to be %110 with the prep work

Geoff Hastings
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Post by Geoff Hastings » Fri Jul 27, 2018 6:26 am

I used the por15, possibly I did not clean the tank sufficiently but I did take 2 days to make sure it was spotless but still the sealer pealed off. When I eventually got the tank clean again I filled all the pin holes using a propane torch and solder. This can then easily be rubbed down and sprayed, 18 months on and still no leaks or blocked carb. I'd never use a tank sealer again.

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