Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
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LOUD MOUSE
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by LOUD MOUSE » Thu May 27, 2010 7:14 pm
I like the bike so far and I for one enjoy the way ya balance the slides for idle.
I think ya can/will help others on how it's done.
Good Job!. ............lm
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eyhonda
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by eyhonda » Thu May 27, 2010 9:44 pm
Oh thanks for noticing that too! I've been doing that ever since I've had twins (cb160's and cb175's). Usually, I initially set the slide opening with a 1/8" drill bit (3mm) in the carb intake. For these particular carbs, it was about 5 turns out from bottom. But adjust your carbs with the drill bit method. Then after it's running, I let it warm up as the idle changes with temperature. First, I adjust the one side for 800 rpm or so. Then the left side the same. Next, I turn it in until I notice an increase in idle and back off a quarter turn. Ditto for the left. This way, the idle is set based on where the rpms just starts to increase off the slide stop screws and is the same for both sides. Hopefully, if all is running well you shouldn't have to change it by more than a half turn, one turn max. Hope this was informative. I don't give that much advice. I have some fear of being wrong. Anyway, I'm open to corrections if needed.
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Wilf
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by Wilf » Thu May 27, 2010 10:36 pm
I love that idea for setting the idle speed screws! It should eliminate all the variability of screw tapers not being exactly matched and also wear where the screws contact the slides. First chance I get, I'm going to try it out.
Thanks,
Wilf
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maia
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by maia » Thu May 27, 2010 11:40 pm
Nice job eyhonda, I'm about to install the same mufflers that you have and it looks like you have cut the headers shorter ( or just slid them into the mufflers a bit ) so that you can mount them to the frame attachment points. I was going to mount the attaching arm to the rear hole in the footpeg bracket but now I'm thinking that maybe that's not so wise as it's alloy....any thoughts on this? Thanks
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e3steve
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by e3steve » Fri May 28, 2010 3:26 am
Those Dunstalls sound lovely!
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eyhonda
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by eyhonda » Fri May 28, 2010 9:36 am
@ Maia; I had the same concerns about the mounting point on the footpeg bracket. Also, being mounted at the frame lower point, it is more hidden. I had to cut the bracket down since it was too long. You can adjust the mounting position better with more flexibility. The mufflers were just pushed on the head pipes, which I got from Nick at Ohio Cycle. I marked a point 2" from the end and just pushed them to that mark. The left side is a bit lower due to the interference with the shifter linkage. You can't tell unless you looked real close and compared the mufflers side by side or maybe from the rear. Well now that I compare my pics and yours, I think my headers are just shorter?? That's OK, the ends are just where I want them. Not too long.
@ e3steve: Thanks for the compliment. Yeah, they sound nice! I did take out the packing but the full length baffle is still in. Just for fun, I will try them without the baffles.
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eyhonda
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by eyhonda » Sun May 30, 2010 8:51 am
I got a new carb cap (thanks LM!) to solve my air leak on the right. So I went for a test ride yesterday and i'm getting popping thru carbs on acceleration. I'm running aftermarket air pods, mufflers (baffles but no packing), 140 main and #3 needle. Any ideas? At first I thought the popping was a lean/air leak condition. It starts and idles fine. It acclerates fine up to 4-5k in 4th gear until the popping starts. Plugs are light black on left and light grey on the right. The right side had the stripped carb cap.