eyhonda - 63 cb77 cafe project

[eyhonda]

I'm not sure how it works but it leaves some sort of film. I was going to seal it but after I drained and rinsed the tank, the rust never came back. It left lots of bits of black metal that used to be the rust. So, it will need lots of rinsing out before use. There are lots of info out there. I'm not an expert. I've only tried 3 tanks and it works pretty good. It's best for mild surface rust not heavy flaky rust. For that, you will probably need 50/50 muriatic acid. I left it in the tank for 2 days. It didn't dissolve the metal. It's a mild acid, but still an acid. It will eat through soft metal like your petcock. Sometimes, I tried it for rusty parts. I dipped the parts in the solution which sells as a 75% strength. It works pretty good. But don't leave in for more than a day. I forgot a nut in there. After fishing it out, the threads were gone! It turns the rust black. I read somewhere, that it's sort of a petroleum jelly.

I got the Dunstalls at JC Whitney. $114 total to Michigan.

[e3steve]

Two and a half questions.

1. How does phosphoric acid work as a sealant? I need to clean rust from my 63 CB77 but fear dissolving through the sides of the tank.

It purges the oxide and it won't harm the metal of the tank. Rust is ferrous oxide; remove the oxide and you're left with the ferrous bit (iron). You don't need it to leave a coating once you start using the tank on a regular basis (empty/fill once every two or three months or so. Most rust converters work very well and remain long term.

[eyhonda]

progress report:

The chassis is 95% disassembled. The motor is still in the frame waiting on head pipes from a dream. I'm hoping they fit with the Dunstall mufflers with a little trimming. Then I will take apart the motor and inspect it. At the very least, I plan on a .50mm over bore, new piston kit, new gaskets and new oil seals. One question - can I install thinner copper head and base gaskets to boost the compression ratio?

But first I will set up the rolling chassis. So, I plan on stripping the frame, swingarm, centerstand, lower triple, headlight case and a couple brackets before dropping them to the local powdercoater. Then I will clean up and blast the nuts, bolts, brackets etc before droppping those for zinc plating. I will polish the aluminum parts up myself.

[deez]

looking great eyhonda! are you gonna fill those holes in the triple clamp? those clip ons are nice as well do you have a link to those? just took mine out for the longest ride to date. freeway and twisties for about 2 and half hours. the clip on position with rear sets all the way back is not that bad of a riding position at all i could have ridden for another 3 hours. keep up the good work.
-cheers
-deez

[eyhonda]

Thanks! Yeah, I will try to fill them. Another challenge. The clip-ons are adjustable +/- 10 degrees. From Roc City Cafe:

http://www.roccitycafe.com/item.php?path=store/uniclip

[eyhonda]

Took off the head, cylinders and pistons. Now, I see why it didn't have compression. On both pistons, the top two rings were pinched in the grooves and didn't provide a good seal. The cylinders had light scoring. I'm guessing since it sat for about 7 years, the moisture and rust locked it up. The next startup, the pistons and rings were probably damaged from the rust lockup after being forced to move.

[eyhonda]

12/12: The powdercoating is done! I powdercoated the frame, swingarm, center stand, headlight shell, bottom triple clamp and the tank bracket. Looks like a great start to a cool project!

12/01: Here is a shot of my sandblasting/paint booth. I just tape up some plastic and its all set. I use a 40 lb pressurized blaster.