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1966 CB77 Restoration Project

Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
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Seadog
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1966 CB77 Restoration Project

Post by Seadog » Wed Jan 17, 2018 2:08 pm

I just received this titled frame. I haven't received the title document yet so I'm not sure, but I'm thinking 1967. Restoration project? If so, I think I'm going to need a few parts....

Media blasting and prime paint before anything.
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Post by Seadog » Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:23 am

I spent a goodly part of the day yesterday separating parts and removing bushings in preparation for glass bead blasting. I found a shop not too far away that's willing to do the media blasting work. First, however, I must find someone to prime paint the bits directly after blasting. No luck so far with that. I've been wondering about priming and painting it myself, but I'm limited to rattle cans, which I don't think would be very durable. I have decided to paint it Scarlet Red (Ref. Honda Code R2, Imron 6543UM or PPG 71650). I'll have to wait until I've found a donor bike or I've accumulated all of the parts and pieces that will need to be painted.
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jkv357
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Post by jkv357 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 2:10 pm

Have you considered powder coating it? A good custom coater can blast and prep it for you, and the finish is significantly more durable than even the best epoxy primer and urethane topcoats. Because of the increasingly high cost of wet paint materials, the overall cost to have the frame prepped and powder coated professionally could be less than painting it.

Some people say "powder is too thick" - well, not if it's done right. You don't need a primer, so it often ends up very close to the thickness of a wet finish.

I've done a lot of cycle frames, and people are always surprised that the VIN stampings are clearly visible. When properly applied, a single-stage coating should be in the thickness range of a sheet of paper. When prepped properly, the chip resistance and flexibility are far superior to any other type of finish that can be applied outside of a top tier OEM production facility.

Color matching can be challenging, but a good custom coater should be able to get pretty close if you bring in a sample of the color you want, It took a bunch of sample "swatches" and a few tests to get a good match for a Ducati frame I did recently (pictured in the link below), but eventually we were able to locate a color that looked good - even with the factory red bodywork attached directly to it.

There is some more info on the Motorcycle and Bicycle Frames page - http://www.apexcustomcoating.com/motorc ... le-frames/


Jay
Apex Custom Coating
www.apexcustomcoating.com
Middleton WI

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Post by Seadog » Fri Jan 19, 2018 7:30 pm

Thanks, Jay. Good information and food for thought.

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Post by Seadog » Mon Jan 22, 2018 4:20 pm

The title arrived today. The bike was last titled in 1995 and was listed as a 1966. Hmm. I've also found a possible untitled 1966 donor, but it's a 6 hour 'round trip. It wouldn't come with the seat, but would include square bowl carbs. The owner tells me that the head has one cross threaded spark plug hole. No key. We'll see how this all pans out when I go see it on Wednesday.
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Post by Seadog » Wed Jan 24, 2018 5:53 pm

Got the parts bike home today. It's missing a lots of bits, but the major parts are there - engine, fenders, etc. The engine is stuck, of course. Grungiest carbs I've ever had and missing parts to boot. The gas tank is rusted, but seems solid.

Started stripping everything down, but will have to finish tomorrow.
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Post by Seadog » Thu Jan 25, 2018 4:31 pm

I spent most of the day tearing the bike down. I was actually impressed at how good the parts are, even down to the bolts. Hardly any wear. The points plate, for example, looks like new, as do the air filter brackets, coil brackets and even the rocker covers. They look as if they'd never been touched. Perhaps they haven't. I removed the one spark plug and found that it was an NGK D8EA, which is quite a bit longer than the standard D8HA. I found that both spark plug hole threads are cross threaded. Timeserts will be needed and I'll have to do some research about that to determine the proper length.

In hope of freeing the stuck piston(s), I filled both of the cylinders with PB Blaster and, after awhile, tried moving the rotor with an industrial strength strap wrench. Nothing budged. I'll try again tomorrow.

I did find a few strange parts. One was some sort of after-market handlebar mount for a mirror, a lever mount without the mirror provision and a strange looking exhaust collar. I have no idea what that collar was really from.

I had no real problems dismantling bits, except for the throttle sleeve, which I had to cut off with a Dremel, and the left crankcase cover. The screws came out of the cover undamaged with a little impact screwdriver persuasion, but the cover itself was stuck on the guide pin, which had corroded into place. It eventually yielded. The crud inside was phenomenal. Just like molasses.

The engine mounting bolts are loosened and I hope to remove motor tomorrow. I'm undecided whether to jack the bike up and remove the front fork first. It just might be the easiest to get the bike off the ground, remove everything and then just lift the bare frame from the engine. I'll have to think about it.

More as it happens.
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