Finally found a smoking closeout deal locally on one of these and couldn't resist.
Hopefully it will help me deal with the insecurity issues involved in reading plug chops!
Now to figure out how to mount it or go with the slide in the tailpipe method.
Doesn't look too complicated?!?!
Dynojet A/F Meter
Brewsky,
I'm curious how you plan to use a wide-band (aka a 2-wire) O2 sensor on a 305?? You gonna mount it so it samples under load? O2 sensors are screwed into an exhaust bung which gets welded into the exhaust pipe. The bungs are a few bucks from any auto-supply house or Midas Muffler shop etc. I don't know what the slip-in looks like, but I'd be hesitant to put anything in the exhaust stream which would restrict the flow. That would defeat the purpose. I'm very interested in your results btw. You planning on doing an EFI conversion??
Last edited by Dana01 on Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Dana
1966/7 CB-77 Red of course 1976 CB-550F (project over-budget and under-funded) 1985 GS-450S (Land Speed Racer) Dana,
Here is the slip in type I may use if I decide to go portable: http://www.daytona-sensors.com/download ... h_Note.pdf Ideally, I would like to be able to read as I ride under varying load conditions, so I can target carb circuits that need to be adjusted. The slip in sniffer version could be attached to the exhaust, with the module and guage temporarily attached by a tank bag etc. I also have another bike I need to tweak also, so this would be the most versatile option. Permanent install with a bung in the optimal location would give more accurate results, however. Instructions recommend the sensor be within 30" of the exhaust port, and with the 1/4" intake with the slip in option, I could meet that for the sampling point, but not the sensor itself. I don't think the 1/4" tubing in the exhaust would significantly alter the results if the larger sensor-contained portion is not blocking the mufffler exit. No fuel injection, just looking for the best carb tuning. The sensor is a wideband Bosch LSU-4.2 with 6 wires, but I can't tell from the instructions if the sensor heater is thermostatically controlled or not....or even if it needs to be? It has data logging which I probably won't use, at least for now. 66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
lamda?Ummm, 14.7, I've read a few thing sabout tuning with wide band. Not so sure tuning to 14.7 is a good idea. It's a physics thing where it's a chemistry ideological target but dosen't work in the real world. I.E. 14.7 is quite lean. It's going to depend on the natural flow and fuel mix and what gets burned shuved out. I think most engines run their best between 13.25 and 13.8? Just puling thouse figures out of my head from what I have read. Anyways, I suggest reading alot about A:F and tuning for optimal fuel eficiency. 14.7 can actualy cost you more fuel. As I stated, it's a chemistry lab thing for target A:F of 14.7. That dosen't mean it won't show up in the real world though!
I bought a wide band for my car from http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ and thier site has some helpful information about what I'm saying. Good Luck! 8-) Let us know the Target A:F in a stock 305 that gives peak HP. Narly,
I'm shooting for best driveability, not necessarily peak HP. Probably will start out looking for about 13 on full load and somewhat higher on cruise, then see how it feels on the road. When my local shop has another "dyno days" sale I will be back there for confirmation. Their normal run and tune is around $300+, but their last dyno days offered two pulls and sniff job for $20. I still hold the record for "lowest HP"! 66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
13 on full load isn't very high. Go for at LEAST 12.5. With such a wobbly ignition system I'd be worried to let it get so lean (relatively) without super precise control of pre-ignition. 14.7 on cruise is too lean as well, IMHO. I've never tuned any bike engines for power or otherwise but have done a couple cars and sat in on quite a few more, for power and driveability. I ran my brother's 1989 M3 2.5L inline-4 engine to 8300rpm on 104-Octane fuel and got 270whp with a max AFR of 11.5, usually looking for around 12, NEVER letting it go over 13 with more than about 50% throttle. Of course fuel enrichment is a multiplication to realistically add more to that with throttle change. The street cars I sat in on got close to 14.7 but only on very little throttle, very low RPM, and always on closed-loop mode where the car itself is being mindful of AFR and pre-ignition. Since the Superhawk doesn't have that, I'd be worried about letting get close to that...
...I'm no expert, just expressing what I've learned in the car world! I'm no expert either, and the bike I'm using is a Dream, which is tuned quite a bit milder than the Hawk.
I was always taught that 3-4% CO was a good place to start, and the factory tuning manuals for sport quads and MX bikes we worked on said the same thing. That equates to about 13-13.3 A/F ratio. I don't know for sure, so I plan on riding, feeling and watching the gauge and throttle position and taking it from there. Probably safer than trying to read the Colortune at 60MPH. 66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
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