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Splitting the Case to replace two studs.
Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 10:30 pm
by Steverino
I had to take the motor partially apart this afternoon. I had to in order to replace those two studs that were twisted with fouled cap nuts. Maybe the guy that messed up the cam timing thought they would look nice since he had no engine cover. Seemingly innocent little "custom" touches like that sure can mess up a motor. Splitting the case gave me a chance to look inside. I checked all the way around the gears and they look good. No chips that I can see. Notice the splotch of paint on the mainshaft. I wonder what it means.
KIMG0813 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
KIMG0841 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
I turned the rotating assemblies and they felt smooth and quiet with no rough spots. Here is kind of a picture with a glimps of bearing and race.
KIMG0823 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
Here is the bottom half and the two studs. sI found no cracks or troublesome shards of metal.
KIMG0810 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
Re: Splitting the Case to replace two studs.
Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 2:48 am
by G-Man
Steve
Good to see that you've got it apart. Those yellow paint marks, I think, are from the inspectors during manufacture, They are just marking that some important assembly operation or test has been done correctly.
You used to see it on critical things like brake rotor bolts on later Hondas.
It shouldn't really matter as your botoom case looks pretty clean but I take out those two steel oil separators at the front to just see if anything lurks underneath.... Anything that gets down there is pretty safe but it helps tell the story.
G
Steverino wrote:I had to take the motor partially apart this afternoon. I had to in order to replace those two studs that were twisted with fouled cap nuts. Maybe the guy that messed up the cam timing thought they would look nice since he had no engine cover. Seemingly innocent little "custom" touches like that sure can mess up a motor. Splitting the case gave me a chance to look inside. I checked all the way around the gears and they look good. No chips that I can see. Notice the splotch of paint on the mainshaft. I wonder what it means.
KIMG0813 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
KIMG0841 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
I turned the rotating assemblies and they felt smooth and quiet with no rough spots. Here is kind of a picture with a glimps of bearing and race.
KIMG0823 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
Here is the bottom half and the two studs. sI found no cracks or troublesome shards of metal.
KIMG0810 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
Engine Case Studs Arrived and Motor Mounted
Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:34 pm
by Steverino
The studs arrived today so I was able to move ahead.
KIMG0853 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
Here is the filter washer in the proper position.
KIMG0789 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
Here is the filter chain properly aligned.
KIMG0791 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
I was finally able to mount the motor.
KIMG0868 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
KIMG0869 by
Steve Steverinomeister, on Flickr
Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 11:30 am
by sixtiescycle
It's looking mighty nice Steve!
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 12:27 am
by Steverino
Thanks Dick
I am real happy that it's looking like a motorcycle again. I did a static timing the other day. I used my continuity tester and set the points to break right on the F's. They were set quite a bit wider than .015 so I gapped them. I am looking forward to seeing how much better it will run with the cam lined up with the crank rather than one tooth behind. Thanks for suggesting to me to take a close look at the timing Loud Mouse.
I am in a hurry to try the repro header pipes for fit. After reading what people have to say about them I have a feeling I am going to have my work cut out for me.
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 9:03 am
by Steverino
G Man
I was unable to find a proper tap to chase the threads out on the flange so I took a screw and dipped it in thinner and ran it in and out repeating until the threads cleared up thanks for spotting that. I appreciate everyone's help.
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 10:33 am
by G-Man
Steve
If I use a screw, I cut a couple of slots along the length of the thread so that it traps the crud.
G
Steverino wrote:G Man
I was unable to find a proper tap to chase the threads out on the flange so I took a screw and dipped it in thinner and ran it in and out repeating until the threads cleared up thanks for spotting that. I appreciate everyone's help.