Page 6 of 11
Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:29 pm
by burnite2
I picked up the glycerin trick from my dad with old Volkswagen stuff. I used a toothbrush and work it in the rubber and let it sit for a couple of hours to soak in and then wipe off the excess. My tank knee pads were hard and some light checking, now they are allot softer but still have the checking. The engine case was bead blasted and then I masked off the cylinder and painted the lower half with rustolium high heat engine paint. The color was dull aluminum.
jeremy
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:03 am
by burnite2
Just got back home and working on the bike again. Had to do some deployment training.
Got the shift linkage done, but still waiting on paint. i cant wait untill its done and riding.
Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:52 pm
by burnite2
Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:17 am
by cknight
You might want to index the shift arm about one spline clockwise where the shaft comes out of the left sidecover. For best shifting, the shift rod should be perpendicular to the arm. Adjust the shift pedal position to wherever it's most comfortable for your riding position, but it's also advantageous to try to have the line from the center of the lever pivot to the to the rod attaching point also perpendicular to the rod. This will provide the best leverage for upshifting and downshifting. Regards, Chase
Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:40 pm
by burnite2
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:41 am
by jensen
Hi,
Nice bike. what kind of sprocket combination do you use ?
Is it the picture, or is the rear sprocket really so small ?
Jensen
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:57 am
by burnite2
Jensen,
Its the picture. I'm running a 15 30 combo.
burnite
