Noob, just getting started on a 67 CL77

[WrenchRust]

I've put another hour and a half into getting the swing arm off this morning. I bent to hell one pry bar and have mostly ruined a rubber mallet. The Bolt has moved almost a full half inch... What am I doing wrong? Here's a Picture.



Joel

[Snakeoil]

My guess is rust between the bushings making the OD of the pivot bolt larger than the bushing on that side of the frame.

Have you tried an aluminum rod and a real, steel hammer? The rubber mallet does not transfer enough energy to the pivot bolt. Might want to shoot some PB Blaster or Kroil in there and drive the bolt back the other way before you go much further.

But if there is a ton of rust on that bolt in the center, you might be SOL. See attached. Rust roughly doubles the size of the steel that is rusted.

regards,
Rob

[WrenchRust]

So I sprayed it down with more Blaster then wacked it back into place before work today. Just got home and gave it a good hit, it's a little looser now. Going to spray it down again and give it a go in the morning. I'll let you know how it goes.

From the picture above and from parts fiche I've seen online, I think the bolt is on backwards.

Joel

[e3steve]

Joel, try laying the bike @ 45º and shoot plenty of releasing agent into every orifice, nook and cranny that you can find. Pull the grease nipple from the nutted end first. I drifted mine out with a 12" x ⅜"-drive socket extension and a heavy steel hammer. The heavier the hammer, the less work involved from the user. Drift it out as far as it will go then lay the bike 45º the other way and lube from the other side; then smack it back in using the hammer and a block of wood.

Repeat.

[Snakeoil]

My concern with using a steel rod or drift is you can mushroom the end of the pivot bolt and create yet more problems for yourself.

A thought I had last night was if you can get someone to help you and you have access to an impact wrench, either air or electric, put your assistant on the wrench and have him spin the bolt without putting any axial pressure on the bolt, while you smack it from the other end.

I do agree that a bigger hammer is better in this case. I still prefer you use an aluminum, brass or copper rod. If you know somebody in the phone company, they use copper grounding rods that are just gorgeous. If you can get one, there is enough there to make lots of copper drifts for moving stuff without damaging it.

regards,
Rob

[teazer]

I think you will find that the spindle is rusted into one or both of the inner sleeves (#7 in that cutaway)

Lots of Kroil or PB or ATF/Acetone and patience and as someone suggested. Knock it out slightly and then back in. That back and forth motion will be more effective than one direction.

A hydraulic press is the best way to get that out, or a large steel hammer carefully applied.

[e3steve]

My concern with using a steel rod or drift is you can mushroom the end of the pivot bolt and create yet more problems for yourself.

A thought I had last night was if you can get someone to help you and you have access to an impact wrench, either air or electric, put your assistant on the wrench and have him spin the bolt without putting any axial pressure on the bolt, while you smack it from the other end.

I do agree that a bigger hammer is better in this case. I still prefer you use an aluminum, brass or copper rod. If you know somebody in the phone company, they use copper grounding rods that are just gorgeous. If you can get one, there is enough there to make lots of copper drifts for moving stuff without damaging it.

regards,
Rob

Agreed, Rob. But it sounds as though the spindle is likely to be shagged anyway. At least the threads could be cleaned up with a file and/or junior hacksaw; and the nipple orifice reamed with a mousetail file or a 5(?)mm drill bit.