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spark + compress + fuel + air = no start
wicked awesome development:
I was testing the other wires checking for anything bad.
i decided to replace the main wire coming off of the pos batt terminal going to the solenoid.
i started to unscrew the terminal on the solenoid and touched the wrench to the other terminal (going to starter motor). it was when sparks flew that i realized that i had not disconnected the battery! talk about stooooopid!
now when i go to connect the negative battery lead back to the chassis, i get mondo sparks!!!
only happens with the wire going to the solenoid connected to pos.
the other 2 wires (rectifier and something else) are fine and there is no sparking.
did continuity test between terminals on the solenoid. there is continuity. nothing is grounding out on the frame as far as i can see.
what kind of test do i need to do to confirm that the solenoid has a short and needs replaced?
should i check further up the chain with the 2 smaller wires going to the starter button and the key ignition switch to see if i shorted something up there?
there is a great looking solenoid on ebay right now. i need to know asap auction ends tomorrow 11pm eastern time.
I was testing the other wires checking for anything bad.
i decided to replace the main wire coming off of the pos batt terminal going to the solenoid.
i started to unscrew the terminal on the solenoid and touched the wrench to the other terminal (going to starter motor). it was when sparks flew that i realized that i had not disconnected the battery! talk about stooooopid!
now when i go to connect the negative battery lead back to the chassis, i get mondo sparks!!!
only happens with the wire going to the solenoid connected to pos.
the other 2 wires (rectifier and something else) are fine and there is no sparking.
did continuity test between terminals on the solenoid. there is continuity. nothing is grounding out on the frame as far as i can see.
what kind of test do i need to do to confirm that the solenoid has a short and needs replaced?
should i check further up the chain with the 2 smaller wires going to the starter button and the key ignition switch to see if i shorted something up there?
there is a great looking solenoid on ebay right now. i need to know asap auction ends tomorrow 11pm eastern time.
Checking Starter Magnetic Switch
Start by disconnecting the big black lead that goes off to the starter motor. Now, there should be no continuity to ground from either switch post for the big wires. If there is, it is shorted internally. Next check that there is no continuity between the two switch posts for the big wires. If there is, the switch is stuck in the starter motor on position.
To test the primary side of the switch, disconnect both small wires. There should be no continuity from either of the posts for those smaller wires to ground. If there is, there is an internal short in the magnet coil. There should be continuity between the posts for the two small wires. If not, the coil is open and the switch won't work.
If everything checks out to this point, to check the operation of the whole switch set up to test for continuity between the two posts for the big wires, and intermittently apply 12v jumpers to the posts for the smaller wires (12+ to post that had black/red wire and 12- to post that had yellow/red wire). Each time you apply the 12v you will (should) hear a click and you will then get continuity across the big wire posts. When 12v is removed the continuity between the big wire posts should go away.
All this will tell if the switch is functioning, but it is still possible it will not flow enough current to properly operate your starter motor because the contacts in the switch may be dirty. Mine were, so I opened the switch and cleaned them. Just be VERY carefull not to damage the thin insulators that keep the big copper connector (moving part that connects the points) from touching ground.
To test the primary side of the switch, disconnect both small wires. There should be no continuity from either of the posts for those smaller wires to ground. If there is, there is an internal short in the magnet coil. There should be continuity between the posts for the two small wires. If not, the coil is open and the switch won't work.
If everything checks out to this point, to check the operation of the whole switch set up to test for continuity between the two posts for the big wires, and intermittently apply 12v jumpers to the posts for the smaller wires (12+ to post that had black/red wire and 12- to post that had yellow/red wire). Each time you apply the 12v you will (should) hear a click and you will then get continuity across the big wire posts. When 12v is removed the continuity between the big wire posts should go away.
All this will tell if the switch is functioning, but it is still possible it will not flow enough current to properly operate your starter motor because the contacts in the switch may be dirty. Mine were, so I opened the switch and cleaned them. Just be VERY carefull not to damage the thin insulators that keep the big copper connector (moving part that connects the points) from touching ground.
Re: Checking Starter Magnetic Switch
What is "switch post"
Explain "no continuity to ground" in this context.
thanks!
Explain "no continuity to ground" in this context.
thanks!
dkwilfert wrote:Start by disconnecting the big black lead that goes off to the starter motor. Now, there should be no continuity to ground from either switch post for the big wires. If there is, it is shorted internally.