main jet holder unobtainable?

chiboy002 · Post by **chiboy002** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 11:06 pm

yeah i pulled it out and was like how in the hell. They must of kept going even if it got hard cause its done.

My only concern is cause the needle jet is probably crushed or indented or something and thats why i wanna replace it. It doesn't seem ovaled but you can tell there is some slight damage to the mating surface or the surface that faces the holder, since it prolly smashed against that.

Needle Jets have cross holes? I thought it was just a small cylindrical jet with the passage in the middle

lifewithoutparole · Post by **lifewithoutparole** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 6:31 am

Hi, I have a Super 90 that i restored in 2001...it had the same issue as yours with the needle jet holder bent. I had a hell of a time finding one looking in MC salvage yards and when I found one it was also twisted and bent I don't know what people were doing to them! I needed a perfect muffler and another gas tank and found a bike on ebay that had been semi-restored so I bouth it for the parts/spare engine...the carb was perfect so that needle jet holder issue was resolved and he had a NOS gas tank! in a box that came along with it. Mine is the later frame, 67, that has a different tank mount as well as a different rear fender mount than the early ones. After assembling most of the bike I decided to have the spare engine top end rebuilt and put it in the restored frame....the surprise came when I got it running and it wouldnt shift into 2nd gear, would just go in first and then neutral. I asked a mechanic friend to help me and we pulled the right side cover and I tried to shift it. he started laughing and said the shift mechanism was as far as it would go up so try down!. well it has a japanses domestic transmission pattern of neutral on top and 4 down! shifted fine once I got the hang of it. just like the 64-66 yamaha 100 twins that had 4 down transmissions,. I too had an s90 in 1966 before I turned 15..lloved that bike and restored this one to look the same. davidsilverspares.com in england hasalot of s90 parts. hondanuts.com in new york have parts too as well as westernhillshonda.com in cleveland. PM me if you run into trouble as I have some experience with s90's. Tim

chiboy002 · Post by **chiboy002** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:00 pm

holy hell man that is one hell of a bike, and you don't know how much i appreciate you offering help.

I took off my clutch cover yesterday to find that the clutch was missing parts... clutch doesnt want to engage either so, like your problem, i can only get it from neutral to 1st and back, otherwise i grind gears like hell...

Thanks a lot man,
Shayan

lifewithoutparole · Post by **lifewithoutparole** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:48 pm

I bought the clymer manual for all 50-110cc singles...it is #M310 and amazon.com has them for 25 dollars....they ae thick and cover everything you may run into....you can probably get a honda S90 parts manual online..I have one and will see if i can scan the pages for the clutch and if successful will attach it here. For the heck of it, remove the right side cover, have someone push the shift lever down , then up while you watch the shifter mechanism (shaped like a star), it has notches in it that you can observe as it moves through the gears...it would be a riot if you had a domestic market engine like mine that has the reversed shift pattern. Thanks for the kind comment on my bike..I have put over 8K miles on it since 2001. I had the top end rebuilt and the cases split about 2k ago and had all the seals/gaskets replaced along with the rod, piston, rings, valves/springs and cam chain. You will love riding your bike but make sure if you have to drop the engine that you replace the ^$^$^$ condenser that is mounted next to the coil on top of the engine and also replace the rectifier with one of the solid state ones from oregon cycle. the only time you can get to the coil, condenser and rectifier is to drop the engine. Also remover the carb when you remove/reinstall the engine or you can scratch the heck out of the paint if it slips during installation. dont ask me how I know this! Good Luck.

Scram64 · Post by **Scram64** » Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:48 pm

Chiboy, Here is the part I emailed you about.
I think that I have a pair. 125 jet size. Scram64

teazer · Post by **teazer** » Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:42 pm

chiboy002 wrote:yeah i pulled it out and was like how in the hell. They must of kept going even if it got hard cause its done.

My only concern is cause the needle jet is probably crushed or indented or something and thats why i wanna replace it. It doesn't seem ovaled but you can tell there is some slight damage to the mating surface or the surface that faces the holder, since it prolly smashed against that.

Needle Jets have cross holes? I thought it was just a small cylindrical jet with the passage in the middle

No. You are correct. Needle jet in those carbs is a simple stepped piece of brass. Almost all slide carbs are 2.60mm needle jets but the heights vary from one to another.

It's that jet holder/emulsion tube that has cross drilled bleed holes.

You could probably drill the bleed holes out with a 1/16" drill bit and clean up the top face and drill it through with a 7/64" drill bit until you find a replacement.

chiboy002 · Post by **chiboy002** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 10:42 pm

[quote="lifewithoutparole"]I bought the clymer manual for all 50-110cc singles...it is #M310 and amazon.com has them for 25 dollars....they ae thick and cover everything you may run into....you can probably get a honda S90 parts manual online..I have one and will see if i can scan the pages for the clutch and if successful will attach it here. For the heck of it, remove the right side cover, have someone push the shift lever down , then up while you watch the shifter mechanism (shaped like a star), it has notches in it that you can observe as it moves through the gears...it would be a riot if you had a domestic market engine like mine that has the reversed shift pattern. Thanks for the kind comment on my bike..I have put over 8K miles on it since 2001. I had the top end rebuilt and the cases split about 2k ago and had all the seals/gaskets replaced along with the rod, piston, rings, valves/springs and cam chain. You will love riding your bike but make sure if you have to drop the engine that you replace the ^$^$^$ condenser that is mounted next to the coil on top of the engine and also replace the rectifier with one of the solid state ones from oregon cycle. the only time you can get to the coil, condenser and rectifier is to drop the engine. Also remover the carb when you remove/reinstall the engine or you can scratch the heck out of the paint if it slips during installation. dont ask me how I know this! Good Luck.[/quote]

yeah i replaced the condenser as it was trashed, the rectifier was doing fine though so i didn't feel it was necessary to replace at the time being.

I might have the reverse shit pattern lol, i have to check cause that would be so ridiculous haha. So far this week i pulled the clutch though, removed all the plates and everything but the only problem i found was that im missing cover screws and the oil guide. I don't know how important that is but my uncle says it might only work with the oil guide in place, since its a wet clutch.

They were completely gone though, i haven't found them anywhere else in the engine so im looking for one now.

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main jet holder unobtainable?

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