Running rich
Ok, so I'm at the end of my knowledge on getting this '66 CA77 (8k original miles) running well. It's still fouling a set of plugs even at idle- new plugs and no revving. Here's what I've done so far (not everything necessarily related to the current problem):
* New battery
* New points- Gapped to .014" and timed precisely per LM's tune-up instructions. Regularly rechecked, the testing light just comes on at the F.
* New condenser
* New Radioshack rectifier/heatsink
* Rebuilt petcock
* Trimmed plug wires back 1/4"
* Coil tested by MC parts store and verified good
* Installed K&N Universal filter
* New D8HA plugs gapped to about .026"
* Rebuilt the PW22 carb using a Keyster kit. I used the original jets (120/35) and float valve set, but I did use the new needle since the original one had a noticeable groove developing in it (can't see it as well as you can feel it). Air screw 1-1/8 out, idle screw at nominal (cold set), choke open. E-clip set on the second from top (second leanest).
Last night I installed a new set of plugs and started it, not needing a choke or increased throttle. After idling for about 20 minutes (to determine it was running rich even at idle), the slow jet is clear and the plugs are heavy with black soot. I know there are several dime-quarter size holes in the right muffler, would that affect anything? If the needle was that worn, maybe the main jet was worn too, but then I was thinking that would affect higher RPMs, not idle? Like I said, I'm out of ideas. Thoughts?
Thanks!!
David
Running rich still...
running richSee how it runs with the air filters off once and with new plugs.
That's why I got the K&N- thinking maybe that old foam (which I assume my grandfather installed, since it wasn't the stock paper material) was choking off the air. If I remember correctly, I took the air filter off before that fresh 20-minute/fresh plugs test. I did find an issue with my carb reassembly (mistakenly put the needle above the larger retaining clip), but fixing that didn't solve the problem after another fresh plug test again last night. I'm beginning to think there's something physically wrong with this carb. Now if only I could find a reliable replacement carb for this thing...
Last edited by obscure44 on Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Running rich still...Since the original needle had a groove, It's also possible that the needle jet (where the needle slides into) has worn "oval". This would account for rich running at low throttle because the needle may be allowing excess fuel to be drawn through the worn areas. Just a thought. Re: Running rich still...Yeah I thought about that too, but didn't want to put the over-sized (130, 135? can't remember off the top of my head) Keyster jet in there. When people say those kits run rich, especially at idle, how much richer are we talking? Going up one slot on the needle (even though I'm at the second from top now), or more? Anyone know where I can find new 120 jets (and a new 35 while I'm at it)? Sirius and Retro Bikes didn't have them. RICH JETTING PROBLEM FIXEDWHEN I BOUGHT MY 1966 CL77 IT STARTED ON THE FIRST KICK EVERY TIME. NO CHOKE NEEDED NO PRIMEING (YES I USED TO HAVE A NORTON). I READ THE GOOD BOOK (SILVERS) AND SAW WHERE IT SAID THAT IF YOU COULD START YOU CL77 WITHOUT CHOKING THE SHIT OUT OF IT, IT WAS JETTED TO RICH. I FOUND A COUPLE OF SETS OF NEW NEEDLE JETS AND PRESSED TWO OF THEM INTO MY KEYSTER EQUIPED CARBS AND "WA-LA". NOW WHEN I START MY BIKE I NEED FULL CHOKE FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES AND THEN A COUPLE OF MORE MINUTES OF 1/2 CHOKE. WHAT A DIFFERENCE, THE NEEDLE JETS ARE SURLY ONE OF THE BIG PROBLEMS WITH THESE CARBS. TOO BAD THEY ARE SO HARD TO FIND.
FAST FRED
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