I have a '65 ca77. here is the deal:
I have spark,
good compression,
fuel from petcock to carb,
clean ngk d8ha spark plugs gapped to .6,
new points, new condenser,
original carb (pw22, keyster rebuild kit, with 130 swapped out for a 125, and a 35 swapped for the 40, carb body recently dip cleaned)
valve adjustment at factory specs.
have airfilter off
not sure on timing- just had it at a bike shop to have it set, but not sure how they set it without the bike running and idling properly.
the bike will not turn over, not one bit. completly lost. it wont even act like it wants to.
spark + compress + fuel + air = no start
fuel comp
Is The fuel getting from the carb into the cylinders?
I'd try pulling the plugs and see if they are wet or dry.
If they're wet your getting too much fuel. Dry not getting enough.
If they are dry you could try putting a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of gas in the cylinders and see if it pops.
It only takes a microscopic piece of dirt to keep the gas from getting to the cyls.
Hope this helps.
I'd try pulling the plugs and see if they are wet or dry.
If they're wet your getting too much fuel. Dry not getting enough.
If they are dry you could try putting a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of gas in the cylinders and see if it pops.
It only takes a microscopic piece of dirt to keep the gas from getting to the cyls.
Hope this helps.
66 Dream
78 Goldwing
78 Goldwing
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- honda305.com Member
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timing
If Mike's pointers don't pan out, Refer to Ed Moore's tune up process on this forum and check the timing according to this process. If followed through to the end, it should take right off. Good luck, RW
I now notice that Ed's process in the FAQ section is listed for the CB&CL engines.
I have not been into a CA but I'm reasonably sure there should be two marks on the timing plate at the end of the crank. T for TDC and F for fire. Use the test light the same way to see the presice moment the points break and adjust the plate so that happens at the fire mark and you should be good to go. Let us know how you are doing on this. RW
I now notice that Ed's process in the FAQ section is listed for the CB&CL engines.
I have not been into a CA but I'm reasonably sure there should be two marks on the timing plate at the end of the crank. T for TDC and F for fire. Use the test light the same way to see the presice moment the points break and adjust the plate so that happens at the fire mark and you should be good to go. Let us know how you are doing on this. RW
there is spark, but the plugs will cease to have spark after it runs and the plugs get wet. could it be that there is not enough spark to combust all of the gas?
versuspop wrote:ok, so timing was off. that is set. plugs are wet as hell with gas. start now, but will not idle. must keep throttle open to run.
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- honda305.com Member
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- Location: Lake Stevens Wa
My gut feeling is that if you have enough spark to see that you have it, then it is enough to ignite all the gas. Too much gas of course would ground out the plug and not allow it to fire making me think your carb rebuild went askew some where. The next thing I would make sure of is that the air/fuel screw is set right. Bottom it out and open 1 1/4 turn out. Beyond that, carbs however are not my expertise so hopefully a carb guru can guide you in the right direction. You're getting close
RW
RW
the carb is as follows:
kei hin pw22
float (diameter = 32mm) set to 26.5mm off the lip.
needle in middle position
main size 125 slow size 35
air screw 1 1/4 out
idle screw in all the way. (have tried out so that it barely raises the slide too....same results)
= choppy, poppy results throughout the weak throttle. and the spark plug condition mentioned before.
kei hin pw22
float (diameter = 32mm) set to 26.5mm off the lip.
needle in middle position
main size 125 slow size 35
air screw 1 1/4 out
idle screw in all the way. (have tried out so that it barely raises the slide too....same results)
= choppy, poppy results throughout the weak throttle. and the spark plug condition mentioned before.