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67 dream not running right

Fuel System: Gas (Petrol) tanks, Carburators
nation
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67 dream not running right

Post by nation » Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:55 pm

starts up fine. take it out maybe 1/4 mile starts to hesitate, buck and stalls. let it sit 20 seconds, starts right up, but bucks all the way home.
that was until this afternoon. didn't want to start, got it started on full choke, would run unless its on full choke. take it off choke, dies.

also, if i move throttle back (off) it locks! i have to loosen screws and move it forward. one false move with that thing and it locks on me

things I've done: cleaned petcock (was full of rust)
changed throttle cable and hinge. i bought the tube and it wasnt right. the spiral ridge inside was too thick or something wouldn't move hinge. any suggestions would be welcome. nation

Hahnda
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Post by Hahnda » Fri Sep 14, 2012 10:58 pm

If you disconnect the fuel line from the carb and turn the petcock on does fuel flow freely?

nation
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Location: Newburyport, Ma.

no!?

Post by nation » Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:05 am

i pulled short fuel line off carb and put petcock all the way forward and res.(middle), just a dribble. took cap off still no free flow

Hahnda
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Post by Hahnda » Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:21 am

You may want to refresh the internals in your petcock.

Retro Bikes sells a rebuild kit.
http://www.olypen.com/retro/PK-259-000.htm

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:57 am

Just reading your first post I would have said you are running out of gas. Second post confirms it.

If you petcock was full of rust, where do you suppose it came from? My guess the tank is pretty rusty inside and the petcock is plugged up again. Could be other crud as well.

I was also going to suggest removing the cap to see if fuel flows better. Although now that you said the flow is bad with the bike just sitting, my guess is, it's not just a plugged vent. But it is good to check that as well. Always possible to have more than one cause in play.

Suggest you remove the tank and dump the gasoline thru a filter into a clean containter. Coffee filters work great for this. Then, set the tank out in the sun and let it dry out.

Now you are going to clean the tank.

First, take the petcock off and replace it with a piece of metal or wood drilled to take the mounting screws and with a chunk of inner tube as a gasket. You can use the fuel cap to plug the filler neck or go to a hardware store and get a plumber's expandable rubber plug that fits the neck.

The next step can be done wet or dry. I like to start out dry and the move to wet because it lets you filter out the crud.

Put a handful of sheet rock screws into the tank and do the cha-cha with the tank making sure you scrub all the surfaces with the screws. You want to do an exaggerated swinging motion with your arms to have the screws scrape along the inside walls and free up the loose rust and crud in there. Idea is not to slam the screws from side to side, but to slide them along the surfaces, the same way you would if you were wire brushing or sanding the inside with your hand.

Dump the screws into a container and I'm sure with them will come a good portion of dusty, gritty junk that will be mostly rust and other contaminants. You may want to do this a few times.

Then return the screws to the tank and add about a quart of mineral spirits. Turn on the Latin station on the radio and resume the cha-cha. This time when you dump the contents, dump it into a funnel with a coffee filter in the funnel and the funnel in a clean jug. Get the screws out of the filter, toss the filter and put screws and min spirits back in and do it again. Repeat this several times. Then repeat, only without the screws. You are now flushing out any debris that sticks to the sides when you dump the min spirits. New filter each time and when you start to see nothing in the filter, you are done.

Put it back out in the sun or leave overnight to dry. You could shoot compressed air into the tank if you are in a rush to get it back together.

Clean your petcock again and blow it out with compressed air.

Make sure to test the vent hole in the tank and blow air thru that as well.

Drop your float bowl(s) and clean them out, too. If you have an inline filter either clean it or replace it.

Would not hurt to run clean min spirits thru your fuel line(s) too and then blow them out with compressed air.

Now put it all back together, put in your nicely filtered gasoline and you should be good to go.

regards,
Rob

nation
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cleaning fuel tank

Post by nation » Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:02 am

Hey Rob, thanks so much,
this is spelled out perfectly for me.
1)what size sheet rock screws work best? 1"?
2) the only vent on that tank is the filler cap right? i took cap off and still didnt flow(i.e. "vent hole"?)
3) for the plug i use the screws from petcock right?
4) i ordered a petcock rebuild kit. i should just do tank first
5) when draining tank first time do it through the cross over spigots?
6) the best hole to remove screws and mess from tank is the petcock hole?(as opposed to filler hole)
thanks again, I'm going to do this! any tips on draining and removing tank first time? i am going to clamp off crossover line etc. never done it. Jim Nation p.s. like your handle!(snake oil)

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Snakeoil
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Post by Snakeoil » Sun Sep 16, 2012 7:43 pm

I've made comments in a copy of your post.

Hey Rob, thanks so much,
this is spelled out perfectly for me.
1)what size sheet rock screws work best? 1"? YES
2) the only vent on that tank is the filler cap right? i took cap off and still didnt flow(i.e. "vent hole"?) YES, JUST THE CAP.
3) for the plug i use the screws from petcock right? WHEN YOU SAY PLUG, I ASSUME YOU MEAN PETCOCK OPENING. YES, YOU CAN USE THE PETCOCK SCREWS OR SIMILAR SIZED SCREWS/BOLTS.
4) i ordered a petcock rebuild kit. i should just do tank first. I WOULD. REBUILDING THE PETCOCK WITH A TANK FULL OF CRUD WILL JUST EXPOSE IT TO MORE CRUD.
5) when draining tank first time do it through the cross over spigots? JUST PULL OFF A FUEL LINE TO DRAIN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. PINCH OFF THE CROSS OVERS AND REMOVE ONE END TO REMOVE THE TANK. IF THE CRUD IS SO BAD THAT CROSSOVER HOSE FLOWS SLOWLY, THEN JUST PINCH OFF, PULL THE TANK AND DUMP OUT OUT THE FILLER NECK.
6) the best hole to remove screws and mess from tank is the petcock hole?(as opposed to filler hole) IF YOU USE THE PETCOCK HOLE TO REMOVE A HANDFULL OF SCREWS, YOU'LL BE AN OLD MAN BEFORE YOU GET THEM ALL OUT. DUMP AND FILL THRU THE FILLER NECK.
thanks again, I'm going to do this! any tips on draining and removing tank first time? i am going to clamp off crossover line etc. never done it. Jim Nation p.s. like your handle!(snake oil)

Glad to help out. Good luck. When you get it done and it is dry, take a look inside with a flashlight. Tank might need to be lined if it was rusted badly. I did this on an S90 and when I was done, I had 4 or 5 pinholes in the bottom. Paint was all that was left. Lined it with Caswells tank sealer.

regards,
Rob

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