Bought my Dream that was in storage for 30 years. PO took care of it, 100% original, 5,900 miles. Starts right up, but haven't gone through it yet. Today during a routine start up, the throttle valve stuck at 3/4 open which usually bike starts and idles fine. Pulled carb to fix that problem (guessing cable needs cleaning, doesn't snap back), so decided to go through the carb while it was off.
Pristine inside carb. As a starting place I would like to go back stock, or to what you experts here would suggest, but cannot find anything definitive what jets are stock. After hours of reading I am confused w/kit brands and sizes, and many say they got wrong stuff, so thought I'd just ask what are the stock sizes and whether or not I should even start out with stock. If I need an all new set up, no problem, but maybe tell me where I can order.
Current set up:
Jet needle D9, clip on 3rd groove
Main 130
Slow 40
Air screw 1 1/2 turns
1900 elevation
Bike has only been started and not driven at this point other than testing gears when I bought it. Air filter original and in bad shape, ordered new aftermarket that looks like original. Any help would be appreciated. Just now getting back on this project, was a busy summer. Thanks!
Help On Stock Jetting PW22, 1967 CA77
Last edited by Tanavon007 on Tue Apr 18, 2017 5:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
If the slide stuck that's an indication that the carb body may be warped from having the carb mounting nuts over-tightened. Check that the slide drops freely from the top of the carb to the bottom.
Two ways to fix warped carb body: 1. Bend the carb back to straight with special home-made fixture (do a search) 2. use some wet/dry inside the carb to remove high spots (The nuts must have the lock washers on them and they should only be tightened enough to compress the two O-rings, one in the carb, the other in the phenolic block.) Better check the flatness of the carb mounting surface and both sides of the phenolic spacer. Why change the jetting? A larger main may be better with ethanol-laced fuel. Do what you've always done and you'll get what you've always had.
WHY?. .......................lm
(The nuts must have the lock washers on them
Why? Couple reasons:
1. Without the lock washers the nuts might loosen. 2. Without the lock washers the person installing the carb may be more likely to over-torque the nuts to prevent them from loosening, thereby warping the carb body. Self-locking nuts (the shorter, all-metal locking type rather than the tall plastic locking type) would of course eliminate the need for lock washers. Locktite will also do the trick. Whatever method one uses, the purpose is to be able to tighten the carb nuts only enough to seal the O-rings but not so much as to warp the carb and without the nuts loosening. On the late sixties Triumphs, the carbs are mounted with stepped studs and dished washers containing O-ring/washers that prevent the carb from being over-tightened. This because the Amal concentric carbs will easily warp if overtightened. So for anyone out there fitting Amals to their 305, use lock nuts and don't over tighten! Do what you've always done and you'll get what you've always had.
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