Fuel System: Gas (Petrol) tanks, Carburators
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e3steve
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by e3steve » Sat Sep 02, 2017 5:16 pm
Bear in mind that these 'boxes aren't balk-ringed synchromesh; they're of the 'dog-type' permanent-mesh gear train. I.e.: the cogs are always meshed, and the gearing is altered by 'dogging' differently-ratiod cogs via castellated nubs on the sides -- not the edges -- of the gears. What this results in is gearchanges which may appear to feel or sound like crash-shifting, but with a properly-adjusted clutch, running in the correct viscosity oil -- SAE30W -- the 'box will "snick" effortlessly between ratios.
Just remember that there's a 'neutral' (null) point between every gear, but only between 1st & 2nd is there a neutral detent.
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Geoff Hastings
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by Geoff Hastings » Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:38 am
Thanks for info Steve, When I stripped the engine and box I did inspect all gears and their relative dog teeth and all appeared ok. My clutch definitely needs a bit of work, I thought, although it is it worn it would do for the initial shakedown. Just done about 50 miles on it today and have a few issues to sort out, it's running rich, plugs very sooty, twist grip very heavy, new cable fitted,so probably just needs some lube and apart from the inlet insulator the new battery does not seem to be charging. Not too bad considering its age and the state it was in when I got it. I can't decide whether keep the original twist grip with all its slack or bin it and use a modern twist grip.
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Geoff Hastings
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by Geoff Hastings » Sun Sep 03, 2017 11:26 am
Hi G man, Second attempt at posting photos, the system did not like the high definition so apologies for these slightly poor pics
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Geoff Hastings
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by Geoff Hastings » Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:15 am
G-Man wrote:You really need to get the correct part for your carb if you want it to run correctly. The differences probably affect only the slow running circuit.
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/par ... 211259020/
G
Hi Graham, I phoned David Silver and got conflicting information so I've taken a chance and just ordered the one using the part number you gave me. It won't be the end of the world if it's wrong.
Geoff Hastings wrote:Nick wrote:Whatever insulator you end up using, better check it for flatness. Had mine off a while back and discovered that it was warped.
Thanks Nick, always worth checking including the carb flange for distortion. I've had a closer look at the pictures on eBay and it would appear that there is also a tiny hole drilled in the insulator, does this hole connect to the semi circular groove?
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Geoff Hastings
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by Geoff Hastings » Mon Sep 04, 2017 11:13 am
G-Man wrote:You really need to get the correct part for your carb if you want it to run correctly. The differences probably affect only the slow running circuit.
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/par ... 211259020/
G
As a follow up, I tried ordering the insulator from David Silver and they now say it's not available and they can't get them either.
Anybody in the uk got one they'd like to sell?
Geoff Hastings wrote:Nick wrote:Whatever insulator you end up using, better check it for flatness. Had mine off a while back and discovered that it was warped.
Thanks Nick, always worth checking including the carb flange for distortion. I've had a closer look at the pictures on eBay and it would appear that there is also a tiny hole drilled in the insulator, does this hole connect to the semi circular groove?
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Geoff Hastings
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by Geoff Hastings » Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:16 pm
DJM wrote:Geoff,
Pretty sure I have one of those, don't know where it came from as I've never had a C72 or 77 and, as far as I know never had parts for them either.
Hi there, did you get a chance to check out your carb insulator? G man posted a couple of excellent photos showing what it should look like and I would like to buy it if it is the correct one.
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DJM
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by DJM » Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:12 pm
Geoff,
Yes, I have it, packed up and ready to go. I've sent you two PMs but obviously they didn't get through, try sending one to me with your contact details.
DJM
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