welding shift fork pads?

OldStan · Post by **OldStan** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 1:44 pm

I'll take another look at them. On first look the surface of the rollers seemed fine, but I'm not sure if I inspected for wear on the inside and pin. Is the area on the drum that wears the inside of the "V" for each shift?

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:32 pm

The rollers should not show any ware at the end which moves in the slot of the drum.
They can show a polished look but no change in the outer diameter.
The POINT of the drum must not show a change from the top to the bottom. ......lm

OldStan wrote:I'll take another look at them. On first look the surface of the rollers seemed fine, but I'm not sure if I inspected for wear on the inside and pin. Is the area on the drum that wears the inside of the "V" for each shift?

OldStan · Post by **OldStan** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 5:10 pm

Thanks lm, I'll check that tonight.

I thought I'd seen a reference to welding the dogs and found this statement by teaser last year;

Someone has to have some spare gears they can sell you and if not it is easy to have them welded and ground back with an undercut.

Sounds like a challenge. Worst I can do is ruin a gear I can't use anyway.

teazer · Post by **teazer** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 7:50 pm

We had a BMW 1200RS trans that kept jumping ut of gear and zero parts are available from BMW. Bought a spare trans off fleecebay and it was as bad, so I stripped the shafts out and sent them to R&D in Clearwater FL and they x-rayed the gears, ground them welded some and ground others back with a back cut and that bike now works like a charm.

That bike makes 150HP so the work that R&D does is more than adequate. The parts came back all clean and looking perfect. Paul gast of Fast By Gast also offers trans repairs.

I'd call them and see what they can do for you. I think you will be impressed. Not cheap but perfect.

OldStan · Post by **OldStan** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:06 pm

Thanks teaser, but repair probably would cost more than the available new part.

checked the rollers. One has the beginnings of vertical grooves, very light and hard to see, and the other looks good. The drum looks square top to bottom. One point is sharper than the other, but on closer inspection I believe this is normal since the bottom of the "v" is longer on that slot.

as far as the dogs go, I noticed that only one dog engages when pulling, possibly explaining why it only slipped out of gear part of the time, that being when the one badly tapered dog tried to engage. The other two were only slightly rounded on the end. I'm thinking some careful grinding might improve the surface and possibly even prevent the bad dog from engaging. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to further explore this possiblity. Along with offset cotters I could possibly (emphasize possibly) save the gear.

OldStan · Post by **OldStan** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 10:30 am

I GIVE UP!!! I was considering doing the cheap but not so good fix, but I found too many things wrong, not to mention I don't want to go back in again, so it's NOS or good used replacement parts.

Upon closer inspection of the sliding gear I noticed the heat discoloration between the dogs by the fork groove and some metal transfer, but the killer is the crack I almost missed. It looked like a scratch on the inside, but on closer inspection(with a loop) it was a crack clear through the full depth of the fork groove. I don't know where it would go from there, but it couldn't be good.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:40 pm

The drum points appear to be OK.
The fork will have wear at the center/middle but your part has badly warn ends for sure. ...........lm

OldStan wrote:Thanks teaser, but repair probably would cost more than the available new part.

checked the rollers. One has the beginnings of vertical grooves, very light and hard to see, and the other looks good. The drum looks square top to bottom. One point is sharper than the other, but on closer inspection I believe this is normal since the bottom of the "v" is longer on that slot.

as far as the dogs go, I noticed that only one dog engages when pulling, possibly explaining why it only slipped out of gear part of the time, that being when the one badly tapered dog tried to engage. The other two were only slightly rounded on the end. I'm thinking some careful grinding might improve the surface and possibly even prevent the bad dog from engaging. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to further explore this possiblity. Along with offset cotters I could possibly (emphasize possibly) save the gear.