I've got around an inch of play at the end of the gear lever on my CB72. I've still not got it running but I can only just select 1st and second before the lever either hits the linkage or the footrest. Looking at it there's play on both the lever itself where it pivots on the footrest bolt and also in the clevis pins in the linkage.
Any suggestions for tightening it all up? Phil Denton does a stainless replacement of the linkage, rod and pins but it's nearly 60 quid, there are also NOS levers on ebay.
Sloppy gear shit linkages
There are a few possibilities and it depends on your intent.
On the stock design, pins wear, the clevises wear and the lever also wears on the bolt. That's a lot of places to wear. I have had levers bushed, and clevises welded and just replaced the pins. The best way to eliminate slop is to use a pair of ball joints, but that doesn't look original. You can also build up the holes with weld and machine them back to size. Or you could replace the worn parts with new. I'd look at any modern bike see what can be adapted. For example a GSXR foot ever comes with ball joint and threaded shaft which can be shortened and re-threaded. Polish the lever and most people will not notice the difference. I usually troll through the wreckers yard or fleabay to find what I want at the right price and work from there. If you absolutely have to have it stock, your choices are NOS or rework.
After extensive googling I've found an online UK supplier of the clevis joints, expensive in stainless but cheap enough zinc plated.
If any UK based people want me to get some in (there's a minimum order surcharge and the postage isn't cheap either) I will do, will be ordering either tomorrow or Tuesday. I think I'm right in saying the gear linkage rod is M8?
Hi G-Man, Toastyhampster
Likewise in the UK and when I got fed up with my gearchange I picked up one from a modern(ish) Ducati which uses an alloy rod and ball joints with R/H at one end and L/H at the other .. cost me about £6 at an autojumble. Made up a longer alloy rod and bought a L/H die ( @£4 ) and fitted it. The pivot pin of the ball joint is slightly smaller than the eye in the Honda arms so I took up the difference with a very short piece of B&Q's best small copper pipe and used a small allen screw and nut as the pivot. Now no slop in the rod part but the arm that clamps to the gearchange shaft spline is still less than perfect. I can improve it for a while by clamping copper shim between the arm and the shaft - its so soft no danger of damaging either but I have to replace it about every 6 months or so. cheers Phil
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