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clutch plates c(cb)72,76

Clutch, Transmission, Drive Chain, Sprockets
joeweir1
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Location: middletown,pa

Post by joeweir1 » Sun May 14, 2006 6:27 pm

Thanks Ed- Just wondering is it possible to install the rings on the pistons without a ring compressor? I never did a top end job before and was wondering what the easiest way is to put it back together for future reference.

LOUD MOUSE
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Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Sun May 14, 2006 7:00 pm

I spread the rings with my finger nails.
I then use a plastic pusher (tool) to get the rings into the cylinders. ................lm
joeweir1 wrote:Thanks Ed- Just wondering is it possible to install the rings on the pistons without a ring compressor? I never did a top end job before and was wondering what the easiest way is to put it back together for future reference.

WD46
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Post by WD46 » Mon May 15, 2006 10:34 am

LOUD MOUSE wrote:I spread the rings with my finger nails.
I then use a plastic pusher (tool) to get the rings into the cylinders. ................lm
joeweir1 wrote:Thanks Ed- Just wondering is it possible to install the rings on the pistons without a ring compressor? I never did a top end job before and was wondering what the easiest way is to put it back together for future reference.
i always use an old polyetheleen bottle wich i cut with a knife , until it fits around the piston.
With this you can compress the rings without damaging anything.
The plastic can easy be cut into the right size.
This works always.
Any way , those partnumbers you gave are for clutch plates i presume?
My c72 is from 1962 and the clutch can only be adjusted with the big adjusting "bolt" on the R.H. carter
cheers!
Life is some WD40 and a lot of patience

LOUD MOUSE
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Mon May 15, 2006 10:48 am

Good idea there. The numbers were for the friction not the steel dics.
Isn't it the same as for all the 62 engines. Or is it a dry sump engine?. ......lm

i always use an old polyetheleen bottle wich i cut with a knife , until it fits around the piston.
With this you can compress the rings without damaging anything.
The plastic can easy be cut into the right size.
This works always.
Any way , those partnumbers you gave are for clutch plates i presume?
My c72 is from 1962 and the clutch can only be adjusted with the big adjusting "bolt" on the R.H. carter
cheers![/quote]

joeweir1
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Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2006 9:35 am
Location: middletown,pa

Post by joeweir1 » Mon May 15, 2006 6:11 pm

Do you already have the pistons attatched to the connecting rods or can the pistons be put in the cylinders and then slid the cylinders down and then put pin in connecting rod?I was not sure if was psooible to do it that way?

rrekr
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Location: Oklahoma

Post by rrekr » Mon May 15, 2006 8:23 pm

Hi Joe,
I always install the piston pins with the circlips first, then install the cylinder. There is a generous chamfer on the bottom of the bore that will aid the assembly. If you are careful, you won't have any problem.
Randy

piecutter
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Location: Maryland

Post by piecutter » Tue May 16, 2006 9:31 am

Just for a little extra input, I'm running a fresh top end (4th overbore Dream pistons in my cb77 courtesy of Loudmouse) and a fresh clutch newly installed in early spring. The clutch plates are original Honda pn#22201-268-020 still available from Honda(I just checked the inventory) no wire rings, and it is a world of difference from the P.O.S. Barnnet plates that the previous owner had installed. As for installing the pistons, I set the cylinder down on the engine with one piston at top dead center and squeeze it in with nothing but my fingers, then rotate the crank till both are even, and work the second one in. I guess that woulb be kinda hard if you have fat fingers, and it helps to have a little bit of fingernail!
I'm doing regular 15 mile runs at 80 mph just as smooth as a 180 degree twin can be, without skipping a beat. The clutch grabs plenty enough for wheelies and burnouts, not that thats my thing, mind you!
And do yourself a favor! Get the replacement rectifier from retrobikes.com! Even if it's new out of the box, 40 year old selenium diodes are going to let you down, if they aren't already plagueing you with mysteriuos "just won't run right" maladies! It's an almost exact copy with modern diodes for an amazingly economical price!

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