Question about Timing

akpasta · Post by **akpasta** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:51 pm

Is that a problem, or is it just something that happens when you go from static timing to a cam spinning at 1500rpms or more?

CliffC · Post by **CliffC** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:18 pm

Think of it this way, when the engine is not running the flyweights are not moving so the static setting of the points should be right on. Once the engine is running, centrifugal force causes the flyweights to move which advances the timing. How much the timing changes depends on the RPM. Cliff

akpasta · Post by **akpasta** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 2:36 pm

Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.

Tim Miller · Post by **Tim Miller** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 3:30 pm

Yes, your advance spring maybe a little weak, but as long as the timing isn't jumping around at idle your OK. I do like to see the timing at idle as close to F as posible, but that's not always possible because of wear on the advancer stops. The most important thing for me is that the total timing at full advance say above 3500 RPM reads between the two full advance marks on both cylinders. No matter what it is idles. This is why I always use the strobe timing light. More often than not if you only set the timing for idle it will over advance the total timing at full throttle and sieze the pistons. The timing light is the cheepest insurance you can buy.

Tim

akpasta wrote:Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:32 pm

Do you use it to set each set while the engine is running?. ............lm

Tim Miller wrote:Yes, your advance spring maybe a little weak, but as long as the timing isn't jumping around at idle your OK. I do like to see the timing at idle as close to F as posible, but that's not always possible because of wear on the advancer stops. The most important thing for me is that the total timing at full advance say above 3500 RPM reads between the two full advance marks on both cylinders. No matter what it is idles. This is why I always use the strobe timing light. More often than not if you only set the timing for idle it will over advance the total timing at full throttle and sieze the pistons. The timing light is the cheepest insurance you can buy.

Tim

akpasta wrote:Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.

akpasta · Post by **akpasta** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:53 pm

Thanks Tim. I figured this was the case. So looks like the best thing to do is set static timing using the Ed Moore method in the FAQ, since that will ensure both sets of points have the same gap and open at the correct time in relation to one another, and then set the advance timing using a strobe, with the engine running, to factor for the variation in timing that comes with an engine spinning at +3500rpms. My friend who helped me the first time mentioned the same thing about the advance, you can overheat if you are too far advanced. I need to retard a little bit, but not much.

And thanks for all the advice everyone, it's a huge help.

Tim Miller · Post by **Tim Miller** » Thu Jul 12, 2012 5:00 pm

Yes, Like I said both cylinder must be the same at full advance. After you set the points @ .014 on the right side adjust the points plate till you get the total timing set between the two marks and lock it down, then check the left side and adjust only the L points gap till it reads the same as the right. Its easy.

Tim

LOUD MOUSE wrote:Do you use it to set each set while the engine is running?. ............lm

Tim Miller wrote:Yes, your advance spring maybe a little weak, but as long as the timing isn't jumping around at idle your OK. I do like to see the timing at idle as close to F as posible, but that's not always possible because of wear on the advancer stops. The most important thing for me is that the total timing at full advance say above 3500 RPM reads between the two full advance marks on both cylinders. No matter what it is idles. This is why I always use the strobe timing light. More often than not if you only set the timing for idle it will over advance the total timing at full throttle and sieze the pistons. The timing light is the cheepest insurance you can buy.

Tim

akpasta wrote:Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.