Points Based Ignition | Electronic Ignition Upgrade
Another drawing(!), mainly for noobs; this time of the points' components. For Type-2 motors, only one set (obviously).
I'm posting this as I know some have found that there's no spark after re-assembly; this drawing places the components in the correct order. To clarify: the fibre washers sit either side of the POINTS BRACKET LUG -- the fibre ring fits inside the lug; this insulation is vital! There's no need for a spring washer under the nut as the entire assembly is under constant tension from the spring steel; just snug the nut up with a 6mm spanner or nut-runner socket.
The insulation can be tested by clipping a 12V test lamp between the motor and each set of points' tag-screw in turn; with the ignition ON -- and if the insulation is good -- the lamp will light when that set of points is open.
Makes sense completely but as I posted in the electrical section, what if you have no spark on ONE side only? I have checked all this and still no spark, it is arcing across the right side points only. The left side works great.
1974 Yamaha DT125 Enduro
1974 Harley Davidson AMF X90
1976-7 Yamaha XS 650
2-1966 Honda Scrambler
1973 Suzuki T500 Titan
I'd hazard an informed guess that your condenser has failed. The condenser suppresses the points' arcing. CBs & CLs have dual condensers, as they save dual ignition systems.
EDIT: have, not save.... (Bloody iPad autocorrect!!)
Last edited by e3steve on Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
Yes, a bad condenser could be the culprit, but there's another reason for arcing across the points. It's not so common as a bad condenser, but sometimes the arcing isn't solved with swapping the condenser.
A condenser is connected parallel over the points (via ground). If the energy of this system (points / condenser) can't find "a way out", it will arc over the points, for example when a coil isn't connected properly.
Check if your coil of the right side is connected properly, or check if the coil is working. Check if the wiring to the coil is connected properly and check the connectors for oxidation.
It's advisable to swap coils for a while, or to use a spare coil to confirm that the mounted coil is working properly.
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
Good point (no pun intended), Jensen.
Smithy, I'd suggest swapping the condensers' connections at the coils, in the first instance, and see if the fault moves to the other cylinder. This is the simplest start for diagnosis.
If the fault stays with the initial scenario, return the condenser connections to their original homes and then swap the entire ignition system wiring -- +ve & -ve Low Tension and High Tension -- in order to 'prove' the coils. In this case, if the fault moves, then you most probably have a bad coil, as Jensey suggests.