Cranks but no spark

[Dr. Frankenstein]

OK, so I have a '64 Dream 305...I have plenty of power from the battery to the solenoid to the starter, but no spark at the plugs.

I have set the gap to the new points at 0.14, and connected one of the two condenser wires to the points, and connected what I assume is the other is ground wire from the condenser to the wiring harness...*that* wire is a green wire in a black shroud.

When I turn the power to the bike "ON", I get no power/spark at the points.

My multimeter tells me I have power/continuity to the original rectifier, but I have no continuity from the coil to the plug caps, and no spark when I crank the motor.

I think it's the coil, but how can I tell for sure? Is there a way to test the coil in-line, and what kind of reading will I / would I get at my multimeter?

If it IS the coil, is there a suitable substitute I can use rather than getting an original coil?

It's frustrating; I've waited a long time to get to this point, only to be stopped by this...

[ugmold]

Frank,
I just got a CL77 going, I am no expert but I checked my 2 coils running an ohm meter from center plug wire to a terminal and got a reading around 7.5 on both (2 coils on the CL77). Don't know if that is good, or bad, but mine is running.

[LOUD MOUSE]

You have a CB/CL72/77 condenser?. ...........lm

OK, so I have a '64 Dream 305...I have plenty of power from the battery to the solenoid to the starter, but no spark at the plugs.

I have set the gap to the new points at 0.14, and connected one of the two condenser wires to the points, and connected what I assume is the other is ground wire from the condenser to the wiring harness...*that* wire is a green wire in a black shroud.

When I turn the power to the bike "ON", I get no power/spark at the points.

My multimeter tells me I have power/continuity to the original rectifier, but I have no continuity from the coil to the plug caps, and no spark when I crank the motor.

I think it's the coil, but how can I tell for sure? Is there a way to test the coil in-line, and what kind of reading will I / would I get at my multimeter?

If it IS the coil, is there a suitable substitute I can use rather than getting an original coil?

It's frustrating; I've waited a long time to get to this point, only to be stopped by this...

[Dr. Frankenstein]

LM, I'm not sure as to what kind of condenser I have...the bike itself is a CA77.

The new condenser I have is about an inch/inch-and-a-half long and sits on the head.

The bike was a basket case when I got it, so it's been "fun" trying to figure out where everything goes. There is also an old set of points and a fairly large condenser that came with it that has two sets of points on the points plate, but everything I have seen about the 305 shows only the single set of points...this bike came with BOTH sets of points (single AND double) off the bike.

I have installed new single points, but I don't know if I have the whole set-up properly configured. I set the gap, but to get the timing don't you need power across the points, so you can tell when the spark plug will fire...?

So since I have no spark at either the points or (seemingly) the coil, I'm assuming it's the coil...what do you think?

[LOUD MOUSE]

Open the points and using a Volt/ohm meter turn the key ON and check for 12 volts at the wire on the points.
You should get voltage there with the points open.
No voltage check for voltage at the + on the coil.
Check all connecting places
Black wire to + on coil.
Short wire from condenser to the - of the coil.
Long condenser wire to points. .....................lm

LM, I'm not sure as to what kind of condenser I have...the bike itself is a CA77.

The new condenser I have is about an inch/inch-and-a-half long and sits on the head.

The bike was a basket case when I got it, so it's been "fun" trying to figure out where everything goes. There is also an old set of points and a fairly large condenser that came with it that has two sets of points on the points plate, but everything I have seen about the 305 shows only the single set of points...this bike came with BOTH sets of points (single AND double) off the bike.

I have installed new single points, but I don't know if I have the whole set-up properly configured. I set the gap, but to get the timing don't you need power across the points, so you can tell when the spark plug will fire...?

So since I have no spark at either the points or (seemingly) the coil, I'm assuming it's the coil...what do you think?

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Open the points and using a Volt/ohm meter turn the key ON and check for 12 volts at the wire on the points.
You should get voltage there with the points open.
No voltage check for voltage at the + on the coil.
Check all connecting places
Black wire to + on coil.
Short wire from condenser to the - of the coil.
Long condenser wire to points. .....................lm



I will go back and try measuring the coil again using your instructions, but that's pretty much what I have done so far.


The battery registers 13 to 12.85 volts.

I seem to have no power at the wire coming from the harness to the shorter condenser wire .

I also have no power at the other longer wire from the condenser that connects to the points.

I have no spark when I ground the spark plug and crank the engine

As far as I can tell, the first wire goes to the coil through the harness, and I don't seem to have any power AT the coil. I seem to have power at the rectifier, and all the leads off of the rectifier to the coil show continuity, but there is seemingly no power at the coil - how can I test the coil, and what will tell me if its bad? How do I test for ohms across the coil? At the poles, or through the two soldered connections on the side of the coil?

Or have I done it already and just don't know it and the coil is toast? Diagnosing electrical problems is still pretty much a mystery to me...

[LOUD MOUSE]

Disconnect the black wire from the coil.
Check for 12 volts.
NO VOLTS go to the switch. ....................lm

Open the points and using a Volt/ohm meter turn the key ON and check for 12 volts at the wire on the points.
You should get voltage there with the points open.
No voltage check for voltage at the + on the coil.
Check all connecting places
Black wire to + on coil.
Short wire from condenser to the - of the coil.
Long condenser wire to points. .....................lm



I will go back and try measuring the coil again using your instructions, but that's pretty much what I have done so far.


The battery registers 13 to 12.85 volts.

I seem to have no power at the wire coming from the harness to the shorter condenser wire .

I also have no power at the other longer wire from the condenser that connects to the points.

I have no spark when I ground the spark plug and crank the engine

As far as I can tell, the first wire goes to the coil through the harness, and I don't seem to have any power AT the coil. I seem to have power at the rectifier, and all the leads off of the rectifier to the coil show continuity, but there is seemingly no power at the coil - how can I test the coil, and what will tell me if its bad? How do I test for ohms across the coil? At the poles, or through the two soldered connections on the side of the coil?

Or have I done it already and just don't know it and the coil is toast? Diagnosing electrical problems is still pretty much a mystery to me...