wheel buildingFor a 'truing stand' you can just use the swing arm or front forks upside down. When you make adjustments, make sure that you spread any corrections over several spokes and remember that when you are tightening a spoke, the opposite ones will react too, and may need adjusting correspondingly.
All great fun and very reversible. I started on my BSA Bantam many years ago and have been building my own wheels ever since. G '60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F The standard practice is to snug up all the nipples until they just cover the threads. Personally, I like to count turns. Maybe a little anal, but that's me. I have a small electric screwdriver with a flag that spins with the bit and makes it easy to count revs.
I would again urge you to google the subject and find a good tutorial on how to do this. There are quite a few on the web. As you read the tutorial, it will give you a feel for what to expect and how to make corrections. I use a magic marker to mark the high and low spots as I true up the rim. I also mark quadrants so I have a feel for where I am when I am in the fine tuning piece of the process. You will find that you may have defects in the rim and need to ID these early in the game. Normally, where the butt ends are welded and ground there will be a slight wobble in the rim. Some (newer rims) are worse than others. You cannot fix this so don't try. Put your old swingarm in a bench vise. Makes a good solid platform. I have a steel top bench so I just put a mag base and indicator on the bench to indicate the runout. You could also use a C-clamp and a pointer made from a piece of rod. I'll say it one more time. Find a good tutorial on the web, print it out and read it. Go slow, learn as you go and understand what is going on and you'll do fine. regards, Rob
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