Flat Handlebars for Dream
-
- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 9:59 pm
- Location: Warren, New Jersey
Flat Handlebars for Dream
Any suggestions for flatter bars that will work on a Dream? I would like to use the stock slider throttle, most aftermarket bars do not accommodate this type. I'm going for a bit of a CB92 look....
I'm in the final process of cutting the slot and the 4 openings for wiring now. I've done it all with a dremel, file and drill so far. Slide works fine and I've deburred everything pretty well. I should have it done in a couple of days.
It's experimental but I have patience and time to see if it works ok.
As far as the chrome removal after cutting, I don't see that as a concern. It cut pretty cleanly and a little grease will reduce the rust staining considerably. As all the cutouts are covered with either controls, clamp or a rubber grommet, there's not much to see.
Again, it's just an experiment with a set of bars off a '73 Honda MT 125 that have good chrome and a very similar measured length.
Steve
It's experimental but I have patience and time to see if it works ok.
As far as the chrome removal after cutting, I don't see that as a concern. It cut pretty cleanly and a little grease will reduce the rust staining considerably. As all the cutouts are covered with either controls, clamp or a rubber grommet, there's not much to see.
Again, it's just an experiment with a set of bars off a '73 Honda MT 125 that have good chrome and a very similar measured length.
Steve
CA78 - 3111XX - Frame
CA77E - 3161XX - Engine
CA77E - 3161XX - Engine
Here's what I did with my bars. They are drag bars from JCwhitney, like $20. I cut the throttle slot out with a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and finished it up with a dremel just as oldstan suggested. Stock brake, clutch and throttle cables work fine, you just need to tuck the extra inside the frame. The only thing you need to be aware of is that some of the dream brake and clutch cables have a chrome bend on the handle bar end and those ones will not work with flat bars.
Good luck.
Jethro
Good luck.
Jethro
- Muddy
- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:03 pm
- Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD, Australia
G'day Livin'theDream
I got some flat bars with the pre-cut throttle slider in them from ebay. Haven't fitted them to the bike yet but the throttle fits and works fine. I did have to cut the centre wiring slot and wiring holes myself.
Keep an eye out if you don't want to cut the throttle slot yourself - the bars reappear on ebay regularly. I search C72, CA72 and C77 separately.
Thanks.
Regards
Muddy
I got some flat bars with the pre-cut throttle slider in them from ebay. Haven't fitted them to the bike yet but the throttle fits and works fine. I did have to cut the centre wiring slot and wiring holes myself.
Keep an eye out if you don't want to cut the throttle slot yourself - the bars reappear on ebay regularly. I search C72, CA72 and C77 separately.
Thanks.
Regards
Muddy
Thanks.
Regards
Muddy
'64 C72
'63 C72
Regards
Muddy
'64 C72
'63 C72
I just finished installing a set of used bars off an old Honda MT125. The bars were not perfect and were more of a "lets see if this can be done with manual tools thing...". I do not own a Mill and really don't know of any access to one, but I do own a Drill, bastard files and a Dremel tool. I've seen bar re-pops on eBay for about $50 plus shipping from Taiwan, but since I had the bars, what the heck.
This can be done and in my case, I'm so satisfied that I'm sticking with them. The biggest issue was the slot. Insure you take careful measurements and have your hinge slide available for continuous measurements. Length is not nearly as important (go a little long) as width (go a little narrow initially). For the slot I just traced out the cut with a sharpie and used the cutoff wheels (small ones - about 1 inch in dia) and started the cut. I ended up going through about 10 of the little wheels when all said and done so buy the package of them. After cutting the slot a little narrow, I used the file to clean it all up using the hinge slide to continuously look for burrs and catches. I think this was the most important part as you do NOT want that sticking - ever. Cutting the slot for the cable stop was pretty easy as well. Insure your length measurements to the start of the slot are pretty close to your original bars to keep your cable from binding. After getting the slot done, there are 3 holes - all sizes vary for the wiring and the throttle cable. For this I used drill bits and finished up with the Dremel reaming tool and a round file. Insure that all edges are rounded over. I put a little electrical tape on the wiring prior to install to keep any chaffing down as well. A small amount of white lithium grease on the throttle control parts and re-assembly. If there is ANY catching I will need to disassemble the right side and file it down a little more or scrape them, but it is a very inexpensive way to have neweer looking bars without limiting your self to brand new oversees re-pops or waiting on very hard to get and expensive NOS bars (or close) on eBay. Special thanks to Daveo for having a throttle grommet too! All in all, it takes about 2 hours of work.

100_3949 by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr
This can be done and in my case, I'm so satisfied that I'm sticking with them. The biggest issue was the slot. Insure you take careful measurements and have your hinge slide available for continuous measurements. Length is not nearly as important (go a little long) as width (go a little narrow initially). For the slot I just traced out the cut with a sharpie and used the cutoff wheels (small ones - about 1 inch in dia) and started the cut. I ended up going through about 10 of the little wheels when all said and done so buy the package of them. After cutting the slot a little narrow, I used the file to clean it all up using the hinge slide to continuously look for burrs and catches. I think this was the most important part as you do NOT want that sticking - ever. Cutting the slot for the cable stop was pretty easy as well. Insure your length measurements to the start of the slot are pretty close to your original bars to keep your cable from binding. After getting the slot done, there are 3 holes - all sizes vary for the wiring and the throttle cable. For this I used drill bits and finished up with the Dremel reaming tool and a round file. Insure that all edges are rounded over. I put a little electrical tape on the wiring prior to install to keep any chaffing down as well. A small amount of white lithium grease on the throttle control parts and re-assembly. If there is ANY catching I will need to disassemble the right side and file it down a little more or scrape them, but it is a very inexpensive way to have neweer looking bars without limiting your self to brand new oversees re-pops or waiting on very hard to get and expensive NOS bars (or close) on eBay. Special thanks to Daveo for having a throttle grommet too! All in all, it takes about 2 hours of work.

100_3949 by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr
CA78 - 3111XX - Frame
CA77E - 3161XX - Engine
CA77E - 3161XX - Engine