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Got it going down the road

Woodsie
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Posts: 101
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2015 2:45 am
Location: Tri-Cities WA state

Post by Woodsie » Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:27 pm

I am going to do that this weekend. Thanks

deafanddiabetic
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Posts: 258
Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2014 6:04 pm
Location: Nebraska

Post by deafanddiabetic » Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:25 am

Want to second what Nick said.

My front brake on my CA72 wasn't stopping that well after new shoes, cleaned drums, new cable, etc.

I just didn't have it centered correctly. Now it stops like a .... well, you know.

Woodsie
honda305.com Member
Posts: 101
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2015 2:45 am
Location: Tri-Cities WA state

Post by Woodsie » Thu Apr 02, 2015 1:23 pm

finally got a picture. I have sanded the brake shoes and drums but have not tried them out as I am waiting for a petcock repair kit. Mike1969, there is your footpeg in all its glory, Thanks
Attachments
honda dream.JPG
honda dream.JPG (141.29 KiB) Viewed 2725 times

Woodsie
honda305.com Member
Posts: 101
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2015 2:45 am
Location: Tri-Cities WA state

Post by Woodsie » Fri Apr 03, 2015 10:22 pm

I am not going to restore this bike. I am guessing that it was originally white and something bad happened at the rear end. Most of the chrome is pitted but it appears to be a solid bike. I hope to make it a reliable runner.

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brewsky
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:21 am
Location: Princeton, WV

Post by brewsky » Sat Apr 04, 2015 3:40 am

That should clean up nicely!
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing

conbs
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Posts: 989
Joined: Mon Mar 16, 2009 3:29 pm
Location: SW Idaho

Nice Bike

Post by conbs » Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:33 pm

I am with Brewsky. Take some time to clean up that Chrome. I have had good luck with Flitz. Whatever you decide, you can probably make that chrome very shiney.

You should be able to get that paint rejuvenated as well. Start with rubbing compound and take your time. Next, polishing compound with a lot of elbow grease. Then get a really good carnuba wax and I think you will be amazed. I like Carnu-B.

For your brakes, I generally agree with what others have posted. Having your shoes relined with modern brake materials would be a really good investment. But, in my experience the adjustment is the most important part. There is a kind of sweet spot. If you hit it with the adjustments, your brakes will actually work fairly well.

This is trial and error. The goal is to make sure that when your brake shoes engage the brake arm is at 90 degrees to the rod/cable. Apply your brakes and see what it looks like. You may have to take the arm off and move it one spline clock or counter-clock to see if that puts it closer to 90 degrees. Once you have that adjustment, tighten the nut on the rod/cable so that the brakes are just disengaged and not rubbing. This may seem like you are pre-loading the brakes. That's because that is what you are doing. Reduce the play to close to the maximum amount that you can squeeze out of it. Then back it off just a little. Go for a ride and see if that helps. Report back to let everyone know if it worked for you. I was amazed at what a difference it made on my bike.

I hope this helps.

deafanddiabetic
honda305.com Member
Posts: 258
Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2014 6:04 pm
Location: Nebraska

Post by deafanddiabetic » Thu Apr 16, 2015 11:28 am

I just finished building a BMW R75/6 with front disc brake. You wanna talk about bad brakes, yeesh.

The brake is a cable lever attaching to an actuated arm that pushes a pin inside a master cylinder that leads to the piston in the caliper. So unnecessary and ridiculous for a feat of modern engineering.

Only reason that I bring it up is people in my Airhead group were amazed to hear that my Dream stops WAY better than my Beemer does.

Drum brakes were around for a long time for a reason, just gotta set them up correctly.

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