Can not for the life of me...

[sky1haze]

Hahahahhaha I have just gotten an English lesson and learned alittle about plugs!

What is it.........As far as measuring the floats , Is it measuring from the gasket or the rim of the carb body??? 26.5

Everyone has their own answer, It seems like they both work......

[e3steve]

Hahahahhaha I have just gotten an English lesson and learned alittle about plugs!

What is it.........As far as measuring the floats , Is it measuring from the gasket or the rim of the carb body??? 26.5

Everyone has their own answer, It seems like they both work......

From the carb body, where the seal sits (NOT from the rim!) old chap; there's a little cutout each side on the carb bodies, so remove the gasket, please. That 1 or 2mm makes a difference ("yes, really" she said!).

[48lesco]

Old Dream carbs can run rich for a number of reasons including worn needle jets, sloppy float pins, weak needle valve spring, etc. I set my float to about 27mm from the lip and it runs great. I always found that 26.5 from the cut-out in the lip resulted in a rich condition. I've used both D6HA and D8HA plugs and found that the D6HA's give me a better idle. Didn't notice too much difference in the warm-up or anywhere else. Hotter plugs are just that - hotter at the center electrode and if it gets too hot can fire the fuel-air mixture before the spark. That's called pre-ignition, and makes an awful racket like a diesel engine that you would notice and causes all of the problems mentioned by e3steve. The D6HA plugs aren't too hot to cause that, they just run a little hotter and reduce carbon build up on the center electrode. That's what causes a reduction in spark energy, some of the high voltage leaks back to ground along the carbon build-up on that center electrode. Hope all of that helps, but I think having the choke open will make the biggest defference...

[sky1haze]

Thank-you,
I just recieved a 10 pack of D6HA spark plugs...After months and months of adjusting and readjusting my carb to get rid of the fouled plugs, I put these bad boys in, adjusted the air/fuel screw, then the idle......I went for a 5 mile ride, that has been the longest I was able to go without the bike bucking and stalling out due to bad plugs......
Allthough the air/fuel screw is turned out about 2 plus times and the idle adjusted accordingly. Should I stick with the usual turning it out 1 1/2 times???????????
Joel

[e3steve]

Joel, the air screw only affects the mixture between idle and about a quarter-throttle; but yes, start again from Ed's Magic Recipe and monitor your plugs' colours.

The needle's taper determines the mixture between a quarter and about three quarters gas, and the main jet at WOT, or when the needle is fully retracted.

Handbook is ready for download now; check out Events ‌‌‌/ Literature forum.

[e3steve]

Old Dream carbs can run rich for a number of reasons including worn needle jets, sloppy float pins, weak needle valve spring, etc. I set my float to about 27mm from the lip and it runs great. I always found that 26.5 from the cut-out in the lip resulted in a rich condition. I've used both D6HA and D8HA plugs and found that the D6HA's give me a better idle. Didn't notice too much difference in the warm-up or anywhere else. Hotter plugs are just that - hotter at the center electrode and if it gets too hot can fire the fuel-air mixture before the spark. That's called pre-ignition, and makes an awful racket like a diesel engine that you would notice and causes all of the problems mentioned by e3steve. The D6HA plugs aren't too hot to cause that, they just run a little hotter and reduce carbon build up on the center electrode. That's what causes a reduction in spark energy, some of the high voltage leaks back to ground along the carbon build-up on that center electrode. Hope all of that helps, but I think having the choke open will make the biggest defference...

Great, useful info!

[sky1haze]

Thank-you Ed and thank-you Steve,

when I first started taking advice about my plugs, someone told me that the screw closer to the engine is the one that I turn 1 1/8 turns, then work with the one on the right..........according to the manual it is the one towards the rear in which I turn 1 1/8 turns and then work with the one to the left....... That could have been my problem the whole time.
Now with the proper adjustment with the screws and the hotter spark plugs, I am ready for a ride with my super low mileage dream. Thanks guys, Really!