I just picked up a 1967 CA77 Dream and I have started to tear it down. The steering damper was not moving as I tried to unscrew it so I put a pipe wrench on it. It seemed to be turning and then "SNAP"!
The bolt broke of level or just below the level of the opening.
Any experience or ideas on the best way to tackle trying to extract the portion that is still threaded in.
A lot of rust around the opening so I have been shooting WD-40 in to try to penetrate.
Also, can the square nut at the top of the steering stem be moved while the broken off bolt is still in place.
I appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks.
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Snapped off bolt removal
Buy a toolbox with a padlock, put your pipe wrenches, vise grips, flat blade screwdrivers- or any other tool that could be used to pry a cover off or a crankcase apart, big hammers, etc, in the box and lock it- give the key to your wife, and tell not to give it back until the motorcycle is done.
Now, I don't have a Dream, but I expect that's a 6" long, 6mm bolt- or similar- cranking on the end will just twist it off. What passes for a triple clamp in a Dream will probably slide out of the steering head with the broken screw in it, I'd cut it off just short of the end and weld a nut onto the stub of the broken screw- some penetrating oil and patience and it should come out,
I'm working on a rusted, junkyard Superhawk, and it;s really frustrating- get in a hurry and parts break. I've spent hours undoing silly things that I should have known better than to do.
I'm to the point where I expect things to break, and plan ahead so it breaks in a spot where I have the best chance of fixing it.
Rick
Now, I don't have a Dream, but I expect that's a 6" long, 6mm bolt- or similar- cranking on the end will just twist it off. What passes for a triple clamp in a Dream will probably slide out of the steering head with the broken screw in it, I'd cut it off just short of the end and weld a nut onto the stub of the broken screw- some penetrating oil and patience and it should come out,
I'm working on a rusted, junkyard Superhawk, and it;s really frustrating- get in a hurry and parts break. I've spent hours undoing silly things that I should have known better than to do.
I'm to the point where I expect things to break, and plan ahead so it breaks in a spot where I have the best chance of fixing it.
Rick
Bolt broken off
Somewhere on this form I saw some very convincing data showing the best penetrating oil is acetone and automatic transmission fluid in a 1:1 mixture. WD-40 is really for water displacement, though it does have mild penetrating and lubricating qualities. You may want to try some Evapo-Rust from Harbor Freight to get rid of the rust. Eastwood also seel some gel that does the same thing, but as a gel it would be easier to keep in place.
I have had some pretty impressive experience with "Grabits". I think I saw them at Walmart or Home Depot. I got mine in a weak moment watching an infomercial. As soon as I hung up the phone, I said ,"Doh!" But, I got them and I had a chance to use them I considered it a great purchase. I have pulled out 6" construction phillips head construction screws with rounded out heads. They were so hot after they came out that I couldn't hold them in my hand. That's a lot of friction.
The trick with them is to get the proper angle on the sides of the hole. One end of the Grabits has an auger/drill kind of bit. It doesn't work perfectly, especially if the material is really hard, but more often than not it gets the job done. Try using it to auger out the stripped out area in the head. If it doesnt get a good angle for the other end to bite, try using a drill bit and move the drill back and forth to angle the sides of the hole to match the easy-out end. If you can get the easy-out end to bite, they are pretty impressive. I would also suggest an impact driver to put the Grabit in. I have an 18V Ryobi that works awesome. In fact I would recommend using it for all your phillips head screws on your bike to keep from rounding them out.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
I have had some pretty impressive experience with "Grabits". I think I saw them at Walmart or Home Depot. I got mine in a weak moment watching an infomercial. As soon as I hung up the phone, I said ,"Doh!" But, I got them and I had a chance to use them I considered it a great purchase. I have pulled out 6" construction phillips head construction screws with rounded out heads. They were so hot after they came out that I couldn't hold them in my hand. That's a lot of friction.
The trick with them is to get the proper angle on the sides of the hole. One end of the Grabits has an auger/drill kind of bit. It doesn't work perfectly, especially if the material is really hard, but more often than not it gets the job done. Try using it to auger out the stripped out area in the head. If it doesnt get a good angle for the other end to bite, try using a drill bit and move the drill back and forth to angle the sides of the hole to match the easy-out end. If you can get the easy-out end to bite, they are pretty impressive. I would also suggest an impact driver to put the Grabit in. I have an 18V Ryobi that works awesome. In fact I would recommend using it for all your phillips head screws on your bike to keep from rounding them out.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
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Dr. Frankenstein
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Hey quidger;
Ahhh, you gotta love rusty 40-something yea old bolts. ya GOTTA! :)
PB Blaster and patience, man....
Yes, I *believe* you can take that square nut off while the bolt is still in place (although this being October 4th, you've probably figured that out by now...); that square nut fits into a round sleeve that fits down on the steering head and the friction discs go around it; after you get all the friction rings out of the way and lift those parts off, you should have a bit more room to maneuver...sucks about the dampener bolt, though, although they don't appear to be too pricey on the 'Bay..
Have fun with the front steering assembly, too; I counted a TOTAL of 37 ball bearings in the upper and lower traces (18 in one, 19 in the other, I can't remember which...), and it's real fun to get the front end reassembled; take it from me and tape your fender edges BEFORE you reassemble it, if you repaint....
Ahhh, you gotta love rusty 40-something yea old bolts. ya GOTTA! :)
PB Blaster and patience, man....
Yes, I *believe* you can take that square nut off while the bolt is still in place (although this being October 4th, you've probably figured that out by now...); that square nut fits into a round sleeve that fits down on the steering head and the friction discs go around it; after you get all the friction rings out of the way and lift those parts off, you should have a bit more room to maneuver...sucks about the dampener bolt, though, although they don't appear to be too pricey on the 'Bay..
Have fun with the front steering assembly, too; I counted a TOTAL of 37 ball bearings in the upper and lower traces (18 in one, 19 in the other, I can't remember which...), and it's real fun to get the front end reassembled; take it from me and tape your fender edges BEFORE you reassemble it, if you repaint....