Honda 305 Dream Fuses Type?

Sascha · Post by **Sascha** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:40 am

Hey guys,

What type of fuse do I need for a 1966 Honda 305 dream?
Is there a name/size I should be looking for?

Thanks!
Sascha

brewsky · Post by **brewsky** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 11:53 am

It comes with a 15 amp inline in the red wire from the battery.

Wouldn't hurt to install another one in the red/white wire from the battery to the rectifier for added protection in case the rectifier goes bad.

Sascha · Post by **Sascha** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:05 pm

There seem to be sizes as well for them, any idea how large they are brewsky?
-Sascha

Hahnda · Post by **Hahnda** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:14 pm

the automotive style blade fuses seem a bit more durable than the old glass tube fuses. You could go with something like this. If was was really looking to keep the old stock look I would run the glass ones.

Should be able to find them at almost any auto parts store for about $3.

conbs · Post by **conbs** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:23 pm

The one you need is an old school automotive fuse. 15 Amp. Glass tube in the middle with metal caps on the end. It does seem to be kind of an odd size, though. Standard 1/4" diameter, but only 1 inch long. I would check your nearest auto parts store.

Didn't you have one in your bike before?

Sascha · Post by **Sascha** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:24 pm

I ended up finding 15 amp fuses that are 250Volts so I am going to use those... I had a fuse in my bike but I have a feeling im going to blow them testing the new wiring i put in.
:/

-Sascha

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:20 am

Sascha wrote:I ended up finding 15 amp fuses that are 250Volts so I am going to use those... I had a fuse in my bike but I have a feeling im going to blow them testing the new wiring i put in.
:/

-Sascha

The voltage on the fuse's spec is purely its upper safe working limit, mainly due to the cartridge type.

Make up a current limiter for testing systems -- a 12V/60W headlamp bulb is ideal, initially -- and connect it in line with the fused cable (and, afterwards, the charging cable); it will absorb the current of a short circuit, burning full brightness in the event of same. It will glow with varying brightness as it passes the current demanded by the bike's circuits. This way you won't blow any fuses during system proving.

Carry out testing with a charger connected or you'll quickly flatten the battery. Switch or plug/unplug the charger at the outlet, NOT at the battery post whilst the charger is on!