Interesting Switch Phenomenon

[Dr. Frankenstein]

I discovered an interesting switch phenomenon while starting my CA78.

I have a 5-postion switch. I get 12+volts at each key setting, Except #2 and #3. My readings there are all over the map, so to speak, on my voltmeter...

If I crank the engine in Position #2, it will not fire; I have no spark. But switch it down to Position #1 while cranking, it fires right up...

Stop the engine with the switch in Position #1, it won't crank. I have to turn it back to Position #2 and crank it, then flip it to Position #1 and it fires right up.


I don't think this is right.....???

[brewsky]

From memory....my positions are:

Starting from extreme forward (most ccw) position

1. crank only, no spark (for engine prime purposes)

2. OFF

3. run with no headlight

4, run with headlight

5. Park tail light on only

#2 and #5 are the only two positions from which the key can be removed

There is a wiring diagram and switch matrix in the electrical forum

[casamere]

This is how mine works Brewsky, I think Frankenstein has a wire or two mixed up.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Yes, I would agree - but any idea which one, right offhand??

[casamere]

Yes, I would agree - but any idea which one, right offhand??

As Brewsky said it shouldn't fire on position 1 ( prime only ), it shouldn't fire on position 2 ( OFF ) only on position 3 should it fire. So try swapping a few wires over. Just been out to check mine and...
Just a thought... At what key positions do you get a neutral light?? Mine only appears on position 3 & 4 ( for lights ) which means 12v to start the bike. Nothing on 5 as this is a park position.1

I think it best as suggested you consult the wiring diagram for the ignition before any damage is done.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Yes, I love my wiring diagram...(cough cough)...but do you have a pic or expkanation of how the proper setup should be? My electrical learning curve is pretty steep, although I AM getting better at it.

As far as I know I am not getting my Neutral light, or any others, to come on, but I haven't really been looking; and the headlight is off while I try to mod it to put in a more modern, replaceable bulb- would that make a difference?


It Will crank, but not catch, in Position #3, but I have no spark...switch it over to Position #1, and I get spark...a nice one, too...hence the switching while cranking, and it catches. What could this damage?

I have between 12.34 and 12.54 volts at all positions except 2 and 3 - in #2 and #3 my voltmeter reads all over the place. I assume this is a clue, but I have no idea for what.

Also, I notice that as it idles, right before it runs out of fuel, it will suddenly race *right before it depletes the fuel in the bowl - I know this because it will only take enough fuel to fill it up, then the valve needle will close as the floats rise...but then it doesn't allow more fuel to enter it until seemingly after the floats drop again...is the engine racing because it's leaning out/richening the mixture?


Again, a picture or an explanation is greatly appreciated; thanks!

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Sorry - just a bit more explanation...

"...then the valve needle will close as the floats rise...but then it doesn't allow more fuel to enter it until seemingly after the floats drop again..."

What I mean by that is, the fuel in the bowl will run out, but it doesn't seem to let more fuel IN as the floats (supposedly) drop...the bike stops, I can add more fuel - it just won't run continuously with a small gas tank attached - in this case a small squeeze bottle with the nozzle stuck in the fuel line...maybe it's a vacuum thing?? I don't squeeze it...maybe I need to add a small pinhole in it to equalize it? I haven't tried that...I mean, even the tank has an air inlet....