kick stand spring and hook install
kick stand spring and hook installCan someone tell me how the kickstand hook and spring gets installed on a CA77. I purchased this bike disassembled and I can't figure out where the hook installs. I've read that it is curved to avoid the swing arm, but I can't place exactly where it goes. The parts schematics show the part but not it's relationship to the install. The end hole on the hook is elongated so I'm assuming it needs to swivel within that hole and can't be bolted tight to anything. Thanks
Ahhh, you gotta love a basket case...You Gotta! :)
I had the same problem with mine when I got it - picture a box filled with screws, springs, body parts, cables, and Nothing tagged or identified! A 42-year old puzzle in a box... The part you're referring to is a curved piece that has two holes in it, right? One is shaped like a key hole (sort of), and there's another simple round hole on the opposite end...the keyhole ('elongated' one) fits around a steel peg in the frame itself, up near where the attachment dowel runs through the bike. The curve is there so it will go Around the swingarm shaft, with that other little hole hanging down. That other hole on the curved piece takes the spring. On the stand itself (Not the kick-stand, the BIKE stand), lower down, there's another steel peg the other end of the spring fits around - it looks like a tiny mushroom -and yes, its a big PITA to get that spring attached to the lower end of that stand! It hangs there, tantalizingly Just out of reach of the little mushroom, waiting for your knuckles... I had to pull out my big can of Garage WhoopAss, some needlenose pliers and get Medieval on its ass before I could stretch the spring enough to get it around that mushroom. Colorful invective seems to help, too... If I recall correctly, I seem to remember I could shorten the length of travel by rotating the stand UP, which seemed to bring it a bit closer to the spring and get some better leverage on it, but I don't remember for certain...and remember, that spring will NOT want to cooperate because its under tension, so it might be a bit of a battle. That's what worked for me; your results may vary... John
I looked at the schematic for the stand again and I see the little peg where I assume the hook attaches. I also looked at some pictures I took of the frame after I painted it and I'm thinking the little peg has been broken off. :(
The bike is at the shop so I'll get out there later today and see if that's the case. That would explain why I couldn't figure out where it attaches. One followup question, what holds the hook on to the peg on the frame? I'm assuming that the peg is grove'd and the spring tension holds it in place.
Wow, Ed, that looks like fun! The hard part has been done for you! :)
Now all you have to do is clean, lube, and put it all together; it's like a big model...your rear frame valance, gas tank and front fender look awesome; that's a good thing... The little peg I speak of is located down near the inside-bottom of the bike stand; it's welded on there and seems to be quite substantial. The other peg the spring connector (the curved piece) hangs on should be located slightly above and to the right of the swing-arm through-hole on the frame...is that not there? RE: the hook-thingy (the curved piece), it's held on it's peg by tension. When you get the spring attached in the right places, it's NOT coming off! Like I said, putting mine on was Difficult, but it can be done. Nice pic; there are a lot of nice parts in there, from what I can see. How's the engine? If it runs (Or 'supposedly' runs; you know how it goes: 'It ran great until I parked it") , I would leave it alone until you get the rest of the bike painted and built. If you paint it, the paint is going to have to sit up and 'cure' for at least a month so it gets some decent hardness to it. It's a labor of love in itself, prepping the frame, fender, tank and what-have-you for paint....and FYI, I painted mine with a Harbor Freight HVLP gun and Rustoleum, and top-coated it with polyacrylic clear; it came out great! Saved me some $$$ AND I learned a lot, so for Me, at least, it was worth it. If you go this route, remember: 99% of a great paint job is in the Preparation... Anyway; I wish I was closer to help you put it together; that seriously looks like fun! John
Thanks again John,
I looked again at the center stand hook and the peg is there. I had the wrong spring so that was part of the problem but I think I'm good now. As for the bike when I acquired it the metal parts had been blasted and primered years ago. After years of sitting around however there was a fair amount of surface rust. I've cleaned and blasted everything, primered first with Southern Polyurethane Epoxy Primer, then with their 2K Primer. The rear fender had a 4" tear in it which I repaired. The front fender was significantly dented/damaged typical to many I've seen. The rest of the parts, tank, swing arm, side covers, etc. were decent. After completing all the metal work I've painted it with Eastwood's Pure White single stage Urethane, then color sanded and buffed. I'm fairly satisfied with the final result. As for the engine, I was told it ran but I've yet to do much with it. Here's a photo of the beginning assembly
Wow, that looks awesome! I did my '64 in white, too. The '62 I have I recently did in Duplicolor midnight blue, just to try it, and honestly I think I got better coverage and workability with the Rustoleum. I was going for a Duplicolor midnight blue metallic look, but my silver basecoat just did not come through - a rather expensive lesson to learn, but I learned it.
My '62 had a tear in the rear fender, too, and a hole-through 'crinkle' in the front fender, so I actually tried the tinning process to fix the front, and as an experiment used JB Weld on the rear. It was difficult to get the proper amount of solder to cover the small hole in the front, and the JB Weld filled in the rear tear pretty good, but on the whole I think the 'tinning' I did up front came out better than the rear, although both held up well to sanding. The front is unnoticeable, while the rear has a bit of a 'JB' bulge, but not too bad. I'm not planning on showing or Restoring this bike, I just want to have fun building it and riding it; I'd say overall it's 10-footer, so I'm happy with it. Don't forget to use painter's tape over the hard inside edges of the front forks when you go to put the fender back on; it's a bit tricky to get the fender where it needs to be without rubbing the metal edges of the forks...and also on the rear outer edges of the fender when you put the engine back in.
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