After several times going through the problem of sticking carb slides, I thought I would share my experience.
I would get various idle speeds that after I adjusted them with the stop screws, the next time it would be too high or would just stall. If I went full throttle, the slides stuck in the full open position and you'd have to disassembly partially to free.
I fixed this problem by removing the carbs and sanding the bores with a fine grit sandpaper. The slides now just slip in with gravity. What was causing my slides to stick is too much torque on the carb mounting screws. In a conversation with Tim McDowell today, he told me the carb mounting screws should torqued at very little (2lbs). Over torqueing, which is easy to do, causes the carbs to warp when the engine gets hot and then the slides stick. I put my carbs on tonight. The torque is so low that I can wiggle the carbs slightly on the mounts. The bike however never ran better. It idles smooth, doesn't stick and runs better than ever. There is no air leaking between the carbs and mounts our I wouldn't be able to get a consistent idle.
Sticking carb slides
Re: Sticking carb slidesDo you really plan on having loose carbs that can wiggle as you ride????????. .....lm
Last edited by LOUD MOUSE on Wed Nov 21, 2012 8:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
YesThey really aren't that loose. With the air box attached you have to look close. With the fiber mount and O ring tightening so they don't move puts me back where I was at the over torque point. I can always tighten them up if I need to. If they are over torqued and they warp again, then the process of disassembly starts over. I'll keep you posted.
I solved a similar problem with a pair of $2 slide springs sourced from Lowes.
They are an exact size match to stock, but make the throttle a little harder to pull, and thus keep my slides snapped down like they are supposed to. I think I posted a picture of the item number somewhere on the forum. It was a huge improvement, and no risk of air leaks from loose bolts.
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