Restoration Blog: CB77 No. 1039XX

FiremanBob · Post by **FiremanBob** » Sat Jun 08, 2013 9:19 am

Degreased and scrubbed the cylinder last night. It looks like some earlier owner went a little too long between oil changes. Below there are six photos of the cylinders. There are some very slight vertical marks in them. Do you think they will hone out or should I get them bored?

FiremanBob · Post by **FiremanBob** » Wed Jun 19, 2013 6:47 am

Am disassembling the head so that everything will be safely bagged and in the drawer before I do any more bead blasting and painting. Got the valves out easily, but the inner rod on the left camshaft is typically stuck. Gave it a thorough soaking with PB Blaster last night but will need some heat to remove it.

One valve spring is broken. Should I replace them all with new just to be sure?

Also, the tappet adjustment caps were pretty badly chewed up by the PO and should be replaced. Is there a reasonable source for new ones? The used ones on fleabay are $25 each and don't look much better than the ones I have.

Also, I have a number of munged-up screw heads. What is the best type of replacement screws and where is the best source?

Thanks.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:11 am

Bob

Yes - sensible to replace the valve springs.

Tappet covers - not much option other than look out for odd sets and choose the good ones....

Many choices for the screws either in zinc plated or stainless, Hex head or cross head. Your choice....

I have found these guys in UK offering stainless crossheads....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-Phillips-S ... 337fca9245

They also do JIS screws.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BZP-JIS-M5-0- ... 3382c75991

Should be someone doing similar on your side of the pond...

G

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:12 am

Bob

Yes - sensible to replace the valve springs.

Tappet covers - not much option other than look out for odd sets and choose the good ones....

Many choices for the screws either in zinc plated or stainless, Hex head or cross head. Your choice....

I have found these guys in UK offering stainless crossheads....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-Phillips-S ... 337fca9245

They also do JIS screws.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BZP-JIS-M5-0- ... 3382c75991

Should be someone doing similar on your side of the pond...

G

FiremanBob · Post by **FiremanBob** » Thu Jun 20, 2013 6:54 am

Thanks. There is McMaster-Carr, (mcmaster.com) which sells in bulk packs. I'll have to do an inventory of all the screws on the bike and then put in a single order for the whole thing, to make it economical.

I'm thinking of going with stainless steel, since I always use either loctite or anti-seize on all screws to protect the threads from corrosion.

Hardware stores around here sell awful Chinese-made garbage fasteners. I tried to put a screw into a wall stud recently, the Phillips slot rounded out immediately at the first sign of resistance.

Yesterday I got the locking rod out of the left camshaft. It took some heat to loosen the crud inside so it would tap out. After work today I'll get the rest of the camshaft apart and bagged. Then I can hone the cylinder and bead blast the cylinder, head and side covers in prep for painting. I did the crankcases in the Duplicolor dull silver, so I plan to use high-temp clear coat on the cylinder and head once they are shined up. My goal is to have the engine re-assembled by the end of this month.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Jun 20, 2013 1:08 pm

Bob

Not sure what others here would do but I wouldn't use any kind of paint or lacquer on the head and probably not on the barrels.....

G

FiremanBob · Post by **FiremanBob** » Thu Jun 20, 2013 1:40 pm

That's interesting. Why not?

And if the aluminium is left bare, what keeps it from staining and oxidising over time? This bike will not be a garage queen.

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Restoration Blog: CB77 No. 1039XX