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The Neverending Tale of a '65 Superhawk Restoration

Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
Gunner_CAF
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Post by Gunner_CAF » Tue Sep 29, 2009 10:25 pm

Overkill?
More like perfection :) It looks nice. I like the finish.

Gunner

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cfloren
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Location: Torrance, CA

Post by cfloren » Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:27 am

Thanks Gunner. I was very satisfied with it myself. It took a bit of experimentation to decide on using brass wire brushes, but it was the cheapest way to go - certainly not the fastest!

Steel wire would have damaged the aluminum, and I didn't have a bead blaster at the time. Even now, I probably wouldn't throw a carb into a blaster for fear of getting glass beads lodged in the passages. So I think the brass brushes were a good compromise.

Also I forgot to mention that I used regular white vinegar to dissolve the oxidation inside the bowls. I tried it out on one of the threaded caps from my old carbs, and it worked a little too well. It dissolved the part! This was over the course of a few days. When I did the bowls I kept a close eye on them and rinsed out the vinegar as soon as the oxidation was gone. Another cheap restoration method in the arsenal.

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:12 pm

I have 3 blast cabinets.
One with sharp to remove paint and rust.
One with round for the aluminum parts.
One with round beads fine as flour that I use on the inside of aluminum engine covers and other aluminum frame parts.
I also use it for carb bodies and parts at 40 PSI.
No problems as I make sure the bodies are dry and the beads will not stick plus I blow all passages with 120 PSI pressure.
I once used vinegar but now blast the calcium away after the carb cleaner dip and ultra sonic hot water/soap bath for 2 hours.
And to think at one time I didn't have tools! ...............lm

cfloren wrote:Thanks Gunner. I was very satisfied with it myself. It took a bit of experimentation to decide on using brass wire brushes, but it was the cheapest way to go - certainly not the fastest!

Steel wire would have damaged the aluminum, and I didn't have a bead blaster at the time. Even now, I probably wouldn't throw a carb into a blaster for fear of getting glass beads lodged in the passages. So I think the brass brushes were a good compromise.

Also I forgot to mention that I used regular white vinegar to dissolve the oxidation inside the bowls. I tried it out on one of the threaded caps from my old carbs, and it worked a little too well. It dissolved the part! This was over the course of a few days. When I did the bowls I kept a close eye on them and rinsed out the vinegar as soon as the oxidation was gone. Another cheap restoration method in the arsenal.

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cfloren
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Location: Torrance, CA

Post by cfloren » Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:06 pm

Sounds like you have the hot setup! I used round glass beads on my engine case halves, head and cylinders, and they came out great. Using super fine beads and low pressures for carbs is a good idea; thanks for sharing your experience on this.

I'm still building my tool library, but then again, so is everyone else. There's always a reason for a new tool. I'm sure someday in the distant future when I can consider myself a veteran wrench, I'll look back on my wire brushes and vinegar with a hearty laugh.
LOUD MOUSE wrote:I have 3 blast cabinets.
One with sharp to remove paint and rust.
One with round for the aluminum parts.
One with round beads fine as flour that I use on the inside of aluminum engine covers and other aluminum frame parts.
I also use it for carb bodies and parts at 40 PSI.
No problems as I make sure the bodies are dry and the beads will not stick plus I blow all passages with 120 PSI pressure.
I once used vinegar but now blast the calcium away after the carb cleaner dip and ultra sonic hot water/soap bath for 2 hours.
And to think at one time I didn't have tools! ...............lm

banksc1970
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Thanks

Post by banksc1970 » Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:12 pm

Just wanted to give out a compliment and a thank you to cfloren and LM. I am getting ready to restore my carbs and found your pics to be very helpful. I hadn't thought about working the flange! I have a 74 XL100 that I am has an air leak at the carb that I haven't been able to figure out (mostly due to lack of time). I bet flattening the flange will fix it!

LM, a blast cabinet was the first tool I bought after I got my 305 a couple of weeks ago. I am still trying to find some round abrasive (do you use glass?) here locally as it is expensive to ship. I stole some of my kids sand out of the sand box to play with in the mean time. Seems to work pretty good and it's cheap, too.

LOUD MOUSE
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Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Re: Thanks

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:36 pm

I use Glass media and ya can order some from<www.tptools.com>.
I use the middle number media both sharp and round.
The super fine is round also. ..........lm

banksc1970 wrote:Just wanted to give out a compliment and a thank you to cfloren and LM. I am getting ready to restore my carbs and found your pics to be very helpful. I hadn't thought about working the flange! I have a 74 XL100 that I am has an air leak at the carb that I haven't been able to figure out (mostly due to lack of time). I bet flattening the flange will fix it!

LM, a blast cabinet was the first tool I bought after I got my 305 a couple of weeks ago. I am still trying to find some round abrasive (do you use glass?) here locally as it is expensive to ship. I stole some of my kids sand out of the sand box to play with in the mean time. Seems to work pretty good and it's cheap, too.

banksc1970
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Post by banksc1970 » Thu Oct 01, 2009 6:59 am

Thanks LM! I appreciate the good info as usual!

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