Amazing- I found them. now to construct a jig to work on them.
The Alumiweld says it will work on pot metal, so I tried it. I had an old fuel valve bowl with many small holes and a large crack in it, so it was pretty much a disaster. By the time I got done it was total junk, but I did learn something. The melt point on it was pretty close to that of the Alumiweld, but it could be worked with care, as long as the pot metal wasn't real thin, which this was in spots. Because the melt points are so close it's real easy to distort the part. I have a carb fuel bowl with many pinholes, but I think I'll let it sit for now.
Swap meet find- 67 Scrambler restoreOldstan
That is a big problem. i tried to repair a carb and was pretty much the same. The instructions with Technoweld suggest a differenet technique, a bit more more like welding where you melt the rod onto the part and heat only the weld area. G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F Alumiweld suggests the same thing. I think what it would take is a very fine tip to try and pinpoint the heat, particularly on the small pieces.
63 CA78
I'm still trying to find a few parts............for others........but I also found a few things I had forgotten about.
Nice cut and paste job on the dyno-cover. One little trick to match materials is to melt scrap of the same material...another damaged cover......and make welding rods to make the repair Good idea, but beyond the capabilities of my equipment, a propane torch won't work for that. Made a fixture to hold the valve caps while attempting to repair them. They didn't come out perfect, but much better than they were. Some had been removed with vise grips and were pretty chewed up. I did ruin one, had a brain fart and tried a method that I should have known wouldn't work. It was the first, and worst, one, so I'm not too upset. I was a little concerned that they might warp due to the amount of heat used (about 730 degrees) but they didn't. Using a die grinder with a sanding disc worked pretty well, but it would have been nice to have a mill, they would have come out much better. The hex wrench actually fits tighter now than on my unmolested covers that are on the bike.
63 CA78
It's time- I've started some repair work, one issue I've had for a while and several that popped up while on an AMCA Road Run in Washington state.
1. Flat front tire. Actually went flat in the back of my truck. On repairing it found it had rubbed through the tube liner and created a small leak in the tube. The location was at the small hole 180 degrees from the valve stem. I wonder if it originally had a rim lock located there? I've put a fairly thick piece of rubber over the hole now. I'm going to check the rear tube and do the same thing there. 2. Came out one morning and found both carb bowls dripping from the overflow, fuel valve was turned off. Tore the valve apart and found a chunk of rubber missing between the supply and hole to the bowl. Temporarily turned the gasket 1/4 turn and solved the problem until I get a new seal. I believe that was the original gasket, so it was probably hard. I wonder if the needle valves should have sealed tight enough to prevent the overflow? I did notice I started having a flooding problem when it sat a while just before I discovered the overflow. 3. Kick start pawl has not always been engaging properly more lately- may be related to next item. 4. As noted on another thread, I've been getting fine brass particles in my oil filter. 5. Clutch began slipping at certain torque loads. I've always had to avoid a speed shift, let it fully engage before pouring the coals to it, but hadn't had a problem once it was engaged. I have the Cush clutch setup, everything is the same as my CA77 which I never have a problem with. I suppose the HP difference could come into play there. 63 CA78
What issue bike you talking about Stan?. ................lm
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