Removing the stator from the point you are already at requires only the removal of the three bolts at its perimeter that hold it to the case. Just be careful when removing the bolts so as to not let the stator slam around against the rotor or engine case.
The crank seal is a large seal that goes right in that big hole you see im my pic. It actually seals the crankcase to a surface of the starter clutch sprocket. The shaft of the crank is actually sealed by the small seal inside the starter clutch sprocket (this is the one that did the majority of the leaking in my bike becuase it was crusty old). It can get damaged when sliding over the crankshaft so I put a few loops of electrical tape on the crank as I slid it on.
Not a difficult job. But be sure to remove with an exacto knife some of the sharp metal of the crankcase or you will destroy the crank seal when popping it in. If Davo put that seal in I'm sure he already did this. I think he was the one who recommended it to me.
I also recommend you get some 3M weatherstrip adhesive and put a small ring of it around the exterior of the crank seal 1. to lubricate the installation of the seal and 2. to hold it in there tight.
As for the rotor puller, I guess you can use a hardened 17mm bolt in place of the tool. I didn't do it that way but I have no reason to doubt Hillhudson who said you could.
And nothing in this process affects the timing in any way.
akpasta wrote:Hm, removing the stator. Looks simple but I'm sure deceptively so, or maybe not?
Is the
picture you show with both seals removed? Does the crank seal fit into that metal area around the crank arm? Would it be worth finally tracking down a manual before tearing into this?
I've never removed a stator from a motorcycle, only mopeds (ha). I imagine taking it off is gonna mess up the timing, or does it fit back on the crank in such a way that it stays the same?
So you need a rotor-pulling tool, eh?