connecting rod sleeves?

hondauser · Post by **hondauser** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 2:33 pm

A plug in the hole ,
+ a drop of epoxy glue ???
or let in place the starter pinion even without the rollers of the one-way clutch !!!

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 7:47 pm

The 1 time I plugged the hole I sprayed lots of contact cleaner then tapered a piece of metal and put JB WELD in the hole and hammered the metal into the hole. .................lm

hondauser wrote:A plug in the hole ,
+ a drop of epoxy glue ???
or let in place the starter pinion even without the rollers of the one-way clutch !!!

Tim Miller · Post by **Tim Miller** » Wed Jan 07, 2015 11:09 pm

I've TIG welded a couple with good results.

Tim

sixtiescycle · Post by **sixtiescycle** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 4:42 am

Farm Shop wrote:As long as I find a crank from a scrambler they are all the same from 65 to 68 for the 305 correct?

No they are not the same but will interchange in the cases as a complete unit. At engine #CL77E-1043132 the primary chain sprocket splines were changed as was the knock pin in the right crank bearing race.

Farm Shop · Post by **Farm Shop** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:07 pm

sixtiescycle wrote:
Farm Shop wrote:As long as I find a crank from a scrambler they are all the same from 65 to 68 for the 305 correct?
No they are not the same but will interchange in the cases as a complete unit. At engine #CL77E-1043132 the primary chain sprocket splines were changed as was the knock pin in the right crank bearing race.

Thank you sixtiescycle.

I bought a useable crank from a 65 for my 67 and I haven't had time to test fit it yet but I'm installing it using my old right side bearing so hopefully all is good!

Farm Shop · Post by **Farm Shop** » Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:10 pm

teazer wrote:I have had CB77 con rods machine and sleeved, but the crank was split to do it. It had to come apart to clean out the hard crud in the oil slinger grooves and to be lightened.

I had a different shop machine a smaller Cb160 con rod - on the crank. They needed to support the crank and just clamped teh rod down fairly hard to stop it from moving. The same approach would work with a Bridgeport mill for a CL/CB 305 crank.

Thank you teazer its nice to hear that it is possible! I was lucky enough to pick up a usable crank which was the easiest route.....

I see you are in the Midwest do you mind me asking who did the work?

PhilD · Post by **PhilD** » Sun Jan 11, 2015 3:10 pm

Reading teazer's post about resleeving connecting rods jogged my memory so I dug out my maintenance logs from the distant past. My CB72 was refreshed at 25359 miles after a trip across Europe to the Austrian Alps in 1974 with a rebore to first oversize and a valve job, unfortunately the left hand small end seized on the first test ride after reassembly. The small end was repaired by inserting a sleeve without to the best of my knowledge the crank being taken apart. The work was carried out by H Senar a local precision engineering firm in Birkenhead ( they are still trading but are now carrying out CNC precision production work ). I'm pretty sure the crank wasn't taken apart as the job didn't cost a lot - I was a poor student at the time. The engine ran without problems for 2072 miles returning 66.5mpg until it was taken off the road when I obtained a CB77. It ran again briefly in 1983 and has been in my garage ever since. It still turns over and will be stripped down for inspection when my CB77 restoration which is nearing completion is finished. I will post some measurements and pictures then.
PhilD

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connecting rod sleeves?

A plug in the hole ???

Re: A plug in the hole ???

Converting CB to CL crank.

Connecting rod sleeving