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1969 CA77 runs erratically

Nick
honda305.com Member
Posts: 176
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:03 am
Location: Paradise

Re: 1969 CA77 runs erratically

Post by Nick » Mon Aug 04, 2025 11:08 pm

If the valve clearance is too tight the valves may be being held open when the engine warms up. Double check the clearance. The fact that it runs fine when cold is a clue.

Sounds like it could be running out of gas. If turning the idle screw in (which raises the slide) has no effect on the idle, somethings wrong.
Note: the cutaway at the bottom of the slide should face rearward. Needle clip should probably be in the middle groove.
Does adjusting the air screw have any effect? Base setting is 1 1/2 turns out from fully in, turning it more than 1/2 turn in either direction shouldn't be needed.
Put some gas in a spray bottle (Windex bottle or similar). Start bike, let it warm. When the rpms start to drop spray gas into the carb intake and operate the throttle. If the bike continues to run and rev up normally while doing that you've got a carb problem.

Re. the timing. I'm sure you know this, but when static timing the bike (no strobe, engine not running), the points should open when the line just before the T line (top dead center) lines up with the pointer. The F mark further around on the rotor is for strobe timing with the engine running.

If you have another coil, old or new, try it. Aftermarket parts are suspect.

Valve adjustment:
Do what you've always done and you'll get what you've always had.

Nick
honda305.com Member
Posts: 176
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:03 am
Location: Paradise

Re: 1969 CA77 runs erratically

Post by Nick » Mon Aug 04, 2025 11:10 pm

If the valve clearance is too tight the valves may be being held open when the engine warms up. Double check the clearance. The fact that it runs fine when cold is a clue.

Sounds like it could be running out of gas. If turning the idle screw in (which raises the slide) has no effect on the idle, somethings wrong.
Note: the cutaway at the bottom of the slide should face rearward. Needle clip should probably be in the middle groove.
Does adjusting the air screw have any effect? Base setting is 1 1/2 turns out from fully in, turning it more than 1/2 turn in either direction shouldn't be needed.
Put some gas in a spray bottle (Windex bottle or similar). Start bike, let it warm. When the rpms start to drop spray gas into the carb intake and operate the throttle. If the bike continues to run and rev up normally while doing that you've got a carb problem.

Re. the timing. I'm sure you know this, but when static timing the bike (no strobe, engine not running), the points should open when the line just before the T line (top dead center) lines up with the pointer. The F mark further around on the rotor is for strobe timing with the engine running.

If you have another coil, old or new, try it. Aftermarket parts are suspect.
Do what you've always done and you'll get what you've always had.

Nick
honda305.com Member
Posts: 176
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:03 am
Location: Paradise

Re: 1969 CA77 runs erratically

Post by Nick » Mon Aug 04, 2025 11:12 pm

If the valve clearance is too tight the valves may be being held open when the engine warms up. Double check the clearance. The fact that it runs fine when cold is a clue.

Sounds like it could be running out of gas. If turning the idle screw in (which raises the slide) has no effect on the idle, somethings wrong.
Note: the cutaway at the bottom of the slide should face rearward. Needle clip should probably be in the middle groove.
Does adjusting the air screw have any effect? Base setting is 1 1/2 turns out from fully in, turning it more than 1/2 turn in either direction shouldn't be needed.
Put some gas in a spray bottle (Windex bottle or similar). Start bike, let it warm. When the rpms start to drop spray gas into the carb intake and operate the throttle. If the bike continues to run and rev up normally while doing that you've got a carb problem.

Re. the timing. I'm sure you know this, but when static timing the bike (no strobe, engine not running), the points should open when the line just before the T line (top dead center) lines up with the pointer. The F mark further around on the rotor is for strobe timing with the engine running.

If you have another coil, old or new, try it. Aftermarket parts are suspect.
Do what you've always done and you'll get what you've always had.

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