Cam Chain Adjuster............. condition assessment

[downtoscratch]

My cam chain adjuster looks just like the one pictured here. The thin center ridge on the black wheel has small defects in the form of very little chips missing. The one pictured here shows the extent of wear in question. This one is currently for sale on eBay. Need to replace? Why the thin ridge in the first place? What would happen if it was removed? Thanks for any advise offered. DTS

[e3steve]

The 'thin ridge' ensures that the chain doesn't slip off the tensioner. There's an idler too, with a bigger diameter but without the tensioning system, in the front of the upper crankcase.

Before you buy, check the pitch across the centres of the fixing bolts on yours; they were changed from 41mm pitch to 32mm at engine nºs CB72E-1007137, CB77E-1050999. The earlier tensioner part nº is 14500-268-010, the later is 020.

Christ, I even convinced myself that I know what I'm talking about there! Luckily, I can read.....

Anyway, don't buy a worn one. The rollers should be pliable, not hard & brittle. They're not cheap when they appear on eBay, especially the 010-type.

[LOUD MOUSE]

NOS/OEM the rollers are hard and not the least pliable. The center on both wheels is to keep the chain "in line" as it moves. I have a way I use the stone of my bench motor and remove the BUMPS on the center of the cam chain tensioner. Difficult to describe on the computer but can be explained on the phone. """ON THE POTION AGAIN" Not all ya read is fact so learn as we go and let others with knowledge and more than book info tell ya as it really is. Grease hands will always tell more than the best paper info because over the years myths or old statements may not include the "YA BUTS" which came along as the bikes were issued and all/many changes were made when HONDA decided to issue more bikes and new/other suppliers won the bid to manufacturer the parts for the coming bike issue. If one were to ask a question as to how many different parts changes were made with the C/CA/CB/CL 72/77 bikes from the first year to the last issue one may be amazed. Couple a days back a bike on eBay had MANY flaws and the seller thought it was and felt it was a proper bike. Apparently he didn't know what/how the bike was as issued. All this said I think that at times one would be wise (myself included) to consider years and or time of experience and look back in time where ya had in hand and worked on the actual part the application or function and for sure get in hand any and all published matter and compare the info to whats in hand. Many times I've ask the bike number and was able to be of help because the feller read info which did or did not apply to his bike. KNUFF for now. As below. Sorry e3steve. ......................emo.

The 'thin ridge' ensures that the chain doesn't slip off the tensioner. There's an idler too, with a bigger diameter but without the tensioning system, in the front of the upper crankcase.

Before you buy, check the pitch across the centres of the fixing bolts on yours; they were changed from 41mm pitch to 32mm at engine nºs CB72E-1007137, CB77E-1050999. The earlier tensioner part nº is 14500-268-010, the later is 020.

Christ, I even convinced myself that I know what I'm talking about there! Luckily, I can read.....

Anyway, don't buy a worn one. The rollers should be pliable, not hard & brittle. They're not cheap when they appear on eBay, especially the 010-type.

[e3steve]

No apology necessary, Ed me ol' mucker! I think I speak for all of us here, who have attained 'advisor' or 'guru' status, when I say that we always look up to you for your 'hands-on' advice and experiences.

That said, I have noticed that my new tensioner and idler rollers are 'pliable' -- but not softly so -- compared with the ones I took out; those have the undesirable link indentations along the ridge and are very hard. Bits will break off easily with pliers' jaws.

Respec' to The Man!

[downtoscratch]

e3steve,
You said, ...... check the pitch across the centres of the fixing bolts on yours...... I'm
not sure I understand here as the part itself has no threaded element. If I use the "fixing" bolts
I have now what would be the difference?

lm,
You said,..... I have a way I use the stone of my bench motor and remove the BUMPS on the center of the cam chain tensioner. Difficult to describe on the computer but can be explained on the phone. I'd very much like to "hear" your explanation regarding the BUMP removal.

Finally, is it to be understood that ANY loss of material along the ridge, whether on the
top edge or even on the sides of the thin center ridge is reason enough for a replacement? dts

[LOUD MOUSE]

HONDA issued 2 widths of the tensioner. So be sure which you have if ya need to replace it. The difference is the distance between the 4 mounting holes. As for the neoprene/rubber wheel it is quite firm and not soft or spongy. Usually when the spring tension is adjusted (do not push in on the shaft) correctly the wheel will last many years. "Thanks for calling DTS" Can again if ya think I can help. A friend in Australia (Jerry) uses these type engines and after extreme modifications "Makes a bunch of HP". One mod is to use an aluminum wheel rather than the neoprene/rubber wheel. I'm sure we could do the same but that we would become rather tired of the NEW NOISE that comes with the metal rather the n/r wheel. ................lm

e3steve,
You said, ...... check the pitch across the centres of the fixing bolts on yours...... I'm
not sure I understand here as the part itself has no threaded element. If I use the "fixing" bolts
I have now what would be the difference?

lm,
You said,..... I have a way I use the stone of my bench motor and remove the BUMPS on the center of the cam chain tensioner. Difficult to describe on the computer but can be explained on the phone. I'd very much like to "hear" your explanation regarding the BUMP removal.

Finally, is it to be understood that ANY loss of material along the ridge, whether on the
top edge or even on the sides of the thin center ridge is reason enough for a replacement? dts

[downtoscratch]

Phone died............!!! Listen up, if you get a chance to speak with lm via cell phone be sure you have
a fully charged battery (just like these old Hondas, they run better that way) otherwise you will lose
an opportunity to continue to learn from one so generous in his sharing. Dang it! dts