Here is what the fool before me had for his air filter. This air filter does not have the same surface area through which to pull air, so I am sure it has been affecting my performance.
So I picked up an original filter (thanks mike!)
I took apart the air filter by tearing all the middle out, and then used a heat gun to heat up the old glue. Heating it up helped a lot in peeling it off.
Here is the bad boy cleaned up
You should also take off one of the sides (it is glued on as well)
Next, get some silicone ($6) and this fram air filter ($8) (or one of similar size)
You need an air filter with the same amount of folds. I counted 73 folds on the old air filter and the FRAM 5058 has more than this. This is good because you'll need to cut off some of the end fold from the FRAM air filter to get rid of the orange foam parts.
Take off the metal
Then you can tear off all the orange plastic. Some will stay on the filter. Because of the size of the filter, you can cut near the edges to get rid of all the orange foam. Make sure you don't cut it too short! In the end you'll want 73 folds + 2 1/2 folds to glue to the side of the metal case. Should look like
On the side where I did not remove the metal end cap, I took some epoxy to the screen to seal it to the end cap.
Now put a VERY generous amount of silicone in the area where the filter will go.
This is a bit difficult. You'll have to place the filter in the silicone while trying to keep it from wanting to unravel. I found near the end you could put the cap on to help keep it contained.
Do not! try to do this without taking one of the end caps off. I tried it and it was very difficult to get the silicone in all the pleats / under the filter. I ended up taking it all apart and re-doing it. Lame-esque. That's why my filter is dirty with black marks.
After letting the first side get tacky enough (1 hr for mine) you can do the other side. Again, put a generous amount of silicone on the end cap. I also put some on the screen, metal edge, and tube that goes through the middle to seal those up.
Mmmm sealed
TIP: On the first side you did, inevitably there will be places that you couldn't seal due to the initial placement procedure. You can go back and put silicone in these folds when everything else has dried.
I also epoxied up the end of my tube
Now onto the installation. Take off the battery case
Take off the other side cover to reveal the rectifier. I had to loosen this bolt to reveal the holes in which to place the rod which supports the filter.
Put the rod in
Then slide the filter on!
Now this part was EXTREMELY difficult. Maybe others can suggest better methods. To put everything back together, took the filter out. I then attached the tube to the carburator. Then I snuck it inside and attached the throttle cable and loosely put the carb on the engine block.
Then I put the filter in, and had to wedge the tube past the edge of the filter. Not easy! I bought a pipe fitting for both side of the tube. Here it is attached after wedging the crap out of it. I also found it made it a lot easier to keep all the screws and pipe fittings loose while doing this.
So you might ask - what are those holes for? Well, read here and here and basically you don't need them. I duct taped 'em!
Put the door on and away I ride! How do you keep this door from falling off?
Hope this inspires/helps out others! Enjoy! I think my bike now more mid-range power, and I think it sounds different too!
Other threads concerning this process here:
Refurb Your Own Air Filter
CA77 Stock Air Filter Mod - Stupidity or Brilliance?
Or you can just buy one from http://www.olypen.com/retro/ for $35. But then it wouldn't be FUN!