Frustration

cribbs74 · Post by **cribbs74** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:03 am

e3steve,

No need for the recipe I have the whole thing memorized since I've had to do it so many times. I always set timing per Loud Mouses instructions. The pointer is down when rotor is pointed at F it's just more in line with the cylinders than true vertical.

The top end has been a little on the noisy side since I aquired the bike. I did a cosmetic resto on the bike and left the engine as is. I assumed it was due to the piston pins.

Mike69 I will check the valves tonight, I was thinking the same thing while lying in bed last night.

LoudMouse. I will go over the chain adjuster again. I set the tension with the plunger in the furthest position when rotating the engine. Wouldn't hurt to check again though.

Do you think loose or broken rivets on my cam sprocket would cause any of the aformentioned symptoms?

I am going to put new pistons in this winter, I can change out the advance springs at that time. I am just hoping to ride a little longer and limp the bike along until then. Texas has beautiful Fall riding weather and I don't want to miss out on it.

mike69 · Post by **mike69** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:34 pm

I know you checked the timing statically but you should try it with a timing light while the motor is running at idle.If your timing fluctuates it means your point gap is not stable possibly from the cam wobbling.

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 6:21 am

Ron, I may be talking out of my arse here but, and I'm sure Ed will correct me if I shoot off at tangent, a noisy top end could indicate loose cam-sprocket rivetts. That would explain the timing variations if, say, the sprocket was shifting about on its axis a lot.

Just a thought....

cribbs74 · Post by **cribbs74** » Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:41 am

Loudmouse, the tensioner is correct. I verified it again last night.

Mike 69, Good idea. I don't have a timing light believe it or not. Perhaps I should pick one up. I had a 30 year old one that went belly up a while back. My valves were good on all 4 so that wasn't it

e3steve, Time will tell if it's the sprocket, good to know that that may be the problem. I am going to have to make the call here and pull the engine if needed. I am looking forward to it except I wanted to do it this winter and ride this fall. As the Stones say we can't always get what we want.

The bike is currently running and pretty well in fact, I wired the coils backward(don't laugh) I pulled the tank off last night and it was obvious what I had done right away. Basically the coils were firing into the wrong cylinder. I had the wire colors correct yellow left green right except they were on the wrong side of the bracket making the plug wires firing into the wrong cylinder. I'm an idiot. I will take the bike out tonight and stay close to the house. I rode for about 10 minutes in the rain last night with no change in timing.

cribbs74 · Post by **cribbs74** » Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:17 pm

Well,

So I rode it into work today and home with no issue. I haven't check timing yet so I'm not sure if it's good. Bike is running fine though so I assume it is.

The idle likes to creep up on it's own and it's not the carbs so I am wondering if it's staying advancd and the engine revs a little. It's idles back down to normal about 10 seconds after I stop at a light.

I wish I could say there was a magic fix to this problem but all I really did is remove the ignition components test them and put it back together. I expect it to rear it's head again but for now I am going to ride it for as long as I can. I do not hear any pre-detonation or anything, If I hole a piston no big deal as I am installing new ones this winter.

My compression is around 90lbs on both cylinders and it bumped up to 145lbs when I squirted some oil in plug holes. They were at 120lbs about a thousand miles ago so I may have had a false reading then. So the rings have seen better days. Thanks to LoudMouse,e3steve and mike69 who posted to help me through this problem. I'm back in the saddle again. Later on

Ron

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:34 am

A pleasure from my end, Ron; we're all here to help each other. What goes around, comes around! I think Ed (LM) & Bill Silver are the only guys on planet Earth who don't need our help with these fantastic machines; they're both just givers here.

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:54 am

I wish I could say there was a magic fix to this problem but all I really did is remove the ignition components test them and put it back together.....
....The idle likes to creep up on it's own and it's not the carbs so I am wondering if it's staying advancd and the engine revs a little. It's idles back down to normal about 10 seconds after I stop at a light.

FWIW here's my diagnosis:

Your removal and refitting of the ignition components has resulted in the system obtaining a more reliable grounding -- if it was my machine, I'd still fit a ground cable between the coil/condenser bracket bolt to the top engine hanger bolt, just to be sure about it not conking out again.

The top end rattle is probably the cam-sprocket rivets or slack/broken advancer springs, as we (you & I so far) have previously guessed -- this, I reckon, would account for

a) the variation in ignition timing, and
b) the idle speed's reluctance to settle immediately

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Frustration

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