Looking for input to a timing issue and high speed issue

rpr851r · Post by **rpr851r** » Fri May 14, 2010 8:26 am

Hello All,

I am heading out for a 100 mile ride tomorrow and am hoping to get a quick answer on an ignition timing issue. I used the static timing technique (Ed’s recipe) to get the bike running and it runs well up to 60 mph and falls flat and won’t pull past 70 mph. I rechecked the timing and saw it was out again which is not a surprise since the points are brand new. In the process of resetting the ignition using the static method I also checked total advance and found it is over advancing. The question is what should I do in the short term until I can check out the advance mechanism? Should I leave the timing as is (over advancing) or reset the timing so the bike doesn’t over advance but is retarded at idle? I think I know the answer and it is to retard the timing so it doesn’t over advance but appreciate input from the group. In addition to the timing issue if you have ideas on how to make it come alive above 60 I would appreciate those too. My next step after timing is to raise the needle a notch. So you have a baseline of what’s been done recently; the bike has new points, new plugs (showing nice color) good battery, new rectifier (charging system is working well), new air filters, cleaned carbs with stock brass, floats set per Ed’s method, carbs synced per Ed’s method, valve clearance set to .004, and running stock exhaust.

Thanks,
Rich

rpr851r · Post by **rpr851r** » Fri May 14, 2010 8:45 am

I forgot to add that it's a 66 Superhawk.

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Fri May 14, 2010 11:29 am

Too much advance can hole the pistons, so definately retard timing. 135 is stock size for main jets, needle second groove from bottom. If that's what your running, you may want to try lowering the clip, and see if that makes it run better. Basically, the pilot circut is for 0-1/4 throttle, the needle for 1/4 - 3/4, and the main jet for 3/4 - full.

teazer · Post by **teazer** » Fri May 14, 2010 5:10 pm

Full advance is much more important than static. On old bikes they are often a compromise. I would set full advance at the right setting and check it with a strobe light. At very low speed timing may be retarded, but that's a better compromise for the short term until you replace the points and weld up the advance and use an electronic advance curve.

There are many available, but I'd recommend Ignitech which will require some fabrication/machining to make it all work off the crank end.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri May 14, 2010 6:45 pm

I must ask why it is that ya seem to always apply RACING modes to fellers/folks who merely want to run/ride the bike they own on the street/highway.
Weld/Ignitech ignition for a couple.
All or most of your ideas require the owner/rider to know a lot more than some may need to, to merely Go Ride the bike they own.
A quick question.
DO you ever have a simple answer for a simple problem/question?. ..................lm

teazer wrote:Full advance is much more important than static. On old bikes they are often a compromise. I would set full advance at the right setting and check it with a strobe light. At very low speed timing may be retarded, but that's a better compromise for the short term until you replace the points and weld up the advance and use an electronic advance curve.

There are many available, but I'd recommend Ignitech which will require some fabrication/machining to make it all work off the crank end.

teazer · Post by **teazer** » Fri May 14, 2010 8:19 pm

Good question LM.

Probably because I like to eliminate the problem once and for all time. Electronic ignition with electronic advance has been available on street bikes for decades. It's a perfectly legitimate upgrade for a street rider.

Another perspective might be that he would be better off replacing the advance unit with a know good one and he'll probably get another "X" years out of that.

There are many good contributors on this board, yourself included who offer advise for those who just want to get the fool thing running again. I offer people options to think about.

Personally I would never fit points or mechanical advance to any motorcycle. There are too many viable options that work better, cost little more and are far more reliable. There's a points replacement offered on this forum. It probably works fine. That's another option.

I would rather that people learn than just keeping them in the dark. Do people want to learn or do they just want to ride? I have no idea, but I'll guess they want both.

But that's just my opinion. I have nothing to gain by making suggestions. I don't sell any of that stuff - just passing information along for owners to do with as they see fit. No one can order an electronic ignition from me. Nor do I supply parts or services as a rule. I used to import Norris cams and valve train parts into Australia a long time ago. Now I'm happy to pass on information.

Long answer to a short question. Maybe one day I'll learn to be brief.