Handlebar; Type 3 for 1965 C77

[Eljeef]

Howdy. Does anyone have a good handlebar for my Dream with the slots for wiring? Thanks, Jeff.
, , Pictures are kinda busy...hope you can make out the details. My bar is bent and has splits where the oval cut-outs are for wire routing. I could weld them if I have to but I would rather replace them. Thanks, Jeff.

[e3steve]

What's your market - i.e. where are you based? That would've been a CA77 in UK, with that handlebar. Those trafficators (winkers) possibly indicate (no pun!) GB/Ca/D(or other N. Europe market)/Jp/Au.

Trawl eBay; similar 'bar to CA95/CA160 with winkers, I think you'll find. Leastways, a good substitute.

G'luck!

[Eljeef]

What's your market - i.e. where are you based? That would've been a CA77 in UK, with that handlebar. Those trafficators (winkers) possibly indicate (no pun!) GB/Ca/D(or other N. Europe market)/Jp/Au.

Trawl eBay; similar 'bar to CA95/CA160 with winkers, I think you'll find. Leastways, a good substitute.

G'luck!

Hello. I'm in Canada eh'. My handlebar has six holes for various wires and cables. Actually there is one on the bay right now that is the U.S. version with four holes. I was thinking that perhaps I could cut the holes out for the winkers. What do you think? Jeff

[e3steve]

Piece o' cake, Jeff:

• Centre-punch the bar in the appropriate places -- an extra pair of hands is useful to steady the 'bar on a block of wood on a concrete floor (not a wooden floor; the datum of a concrete floor will resist the impact of the punch; that way you won't have to hit the punch too hard)
  Start with a small drill bit -- 3mm/⅛" and work your way up to 10mm/⅜"
  De-burr the final aperture using the point of a sharp knife (not a modelling / Stanley knife!) -- tape up the blade, leaving just the point exposed, and wear heavy gloves
  Treat the bared metal with silicon grease or, as a good second choice, WD40 -- essential in order to avoid the plating being undermined further in the future

Cinch!

[Eljeef]

Piece o' cake, Jeff:

• Centre-punch the bar in the appropriate places -- an extra pair of hands is useful to steady the 'bar on a block of wood on a concrete floor (not a wooden floor; the datum of a concrete floor will resist the impact of the punch; that way you won't have to hit the punch too hard)
  Start with a small drill bit -- 3mm/⅛" and work your way up to 10mm/⅜"
  De-burr the final aperture using the point of a sharp knife (not a modelling / Stanley knife!) -- tape up the blade, leaving just the point exposed, and wear heavy gloves
  Treat the bared metal with silicon grease or, as a good second choice, WD40 -- essential in order to avoid the plating being undermined further in the future

Cinch!

Thanks. Maybe I'll give that a go and then I could get it chromed to treat the metal. Regards, Jeff.