trouble with shift action

[resurrection]

Hello
I'm new to the site.Over the years I've rebuilt many motors so I'm not new to the game.

Although this is my first hawk.

I have made my way into the cover and past the clutch and found nothing to fault in the shift hardware.

Seems the trouble lies in the shift drum slot pegs or the forks.

It seems to find a false neutral and hang upl between shifts,once in gear it's fine.

I'm hoping to find some insite as to common issues with the forks or drum.

Along with parts, I would love your input.



I built this bike years ago and only riden it a few times because I've been puting this off.

[Loudo]

Having just gone through this with my CB77 I can tell you that I found a badly worn shift fork, matching wear in the gear groove in which the fork tangs rest, badly rounded gear dogs, and a worn out 14mm bushing on the countershaft. I found no problems with the shift drum, shift fork pins, or shifting hardware outside the case.

You might want to scan through the posts in the "Transmission" section of this forum, there's a lot of info there that helped me. The problems I found were consistent with what are described as the most common problems with these transmissions.

[resurrection]

Thanks
I'm sure these things you mention are the issue.

Where did you get parts?

[Loudo]

I purchased two used transmission sets on eBay and picked the best gears and shafts from them. Western Hills Honda and Ohio Cycle had the 14mm bushing and offsett cotters and so forth. I had to buy a new shift fork from Ohio Cycle for $80 because I did not trust the remaining useful life of forks available on eBay.

Good luck!

[resurrection]

If you have concerns for bend or wear.I can help,I'm a tool maker by trade with all the proper tools and skills to spec (blue print conferm).

We can trade favors.

[teazer]

Resurrection,

Can you grind the tangs back on the shift fork, weld them up with three pads and grind the forks back to stock? I had a bunch of shift forks repaired back in Australia when I couldn't get any. But that was back before Disco!

It needs a simple jig. Basically a short length of bar stock about 6 inches long, to slide the forks over with a hole for the bolt to go through to lock them in place for repeatability. Can't assume that the cast surfaces are acceptable as a reference - go off the pivot bolt or whatever it's called.

Stock shift forks have two raised pads at the ends and i added a third one in the center to stop them rocking. You need one new one as a reference, but i think I have one in stock here just south of Gurnee you can borrow if necessary?

[resurrection]

sure I can help.

In the mold building field we weld and reface often.If we have specs or as you say a new one for ref. we can build a jig to hold the fork while using the pin as a datum.

I'm in Park forest about 65miles south of Gurnee. I can PM my phone # if you can make it down here.