help with restoration

pieeater · Post by **pieeater** » Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:14 am

Yes its good int it.
Not only was the engine seized, the rear chain is seized, the rear brake was seized on and the rear mudguard was sitting on top of the tyre ( tyre, I use the term loosely old rubber band around the rear rim ). No wonder it wouldn't move.
What have I bought here. I will have to hide it from the misses.
D

garncarz · Post by **garncarz** » Wed Oct 01, 2014 12:50 pm

Hopefully, you have all of the really expensive bits not shown in your picture: Chain guards, carb covers, side covers, seat, the chrome trim around the seat, air filter and hose, etc.

The speedo, headlight and mufflers are also ghastly expensive if they need to be replaced.

Good luck.

malcolmgb · Post by **malcolmgb** » Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:55 pm

Hmm! maybe next job you need a little more patience, it took me over 3 weeks to de-seize my engine, remember these are 50 year old bikes and may have sat for much of that time.

pieeater · Post by **pieeater** » Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:19 pm

What you see is what I have got. This is how it came off the transport that delivered it.
Im not blessed with patience it comes with working as a field service engineer for 45 years. When your out in the field on a breakdown and on you own you learn to do what you have to do to fix the machine. A piston that's seized to that extent I wouldn't want to use again anyway so get it out and move on. Looks like I need to make a puller for the rotor. I am not too bothered about originality if so if there is something that's not available or too expensive I will make the part or use something else. At least it will be running and back on the road and not lying in a barn rusting away.
I bought a swinging arm on ebay it came today nice one too. The old was rotted away. The petrol tap disintegrated when I tried to take it off today and I don't know where its been but the petrol tank was half full of what looks like sand or dirt and the tank has more holes than a lace curtain. What about this primary chain, over engineered or what looks like it should be on a forklift.Good this int it.

pieeater · Post by **pieeater** » Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:54 am

Took the sump off to clean the swarf out after drilling the piston. Bought a 16mm fine bolt to draw the rotor off and found the sprag clutch for the starter was all rusted up. Anyway its sorted now.
Regarding the drive gear for filter. It isn't fixed to the crankshaft its just clamped between the engine sprocket and a sprung washer held on with a tab washer. I take it that its not designed to be tightened up tight so it can slip if the filter becomes blocked. Is this correct.

malcolmgb · Post by **malcolmgb** » Thu Oct 02, 2014 1:29 pm

I was also a Field Service Engineer but for only 30 years, maybe I got out in time ;)
Good Luck.

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Thu Oct 02, 2014 5:21 pm

No.
Tighten the nut as hard as you can.
There is no reason the gear should/would slip. ........lm

pieeater wrote:Took the sump off to clean the swarf out after drilling the piston. Bought a 16mm fine bolt to draw the rotor off and found the sprag clutch for the starter was all rusted up. Anyway its sorted now.
Regarding the drive gear for filter. It isn't fixed to the crankshaft its just clamped between the engine sprocket and a sprung washer held on with a tab washer. I take it that its not designed to be tightened up tight so it can slip if the filter becomes blocked. Is this correct.