I got a new switch knob from FastFred and now have a neutral light and 'blinkers'. I used a mini-dash lamp (really bright and low current draw) for the bulb, and I happened to still have the green jeweled lens from a DEW Line radar panel that I towed home on a tobagan at 30 below when I was in grade 11. It fit nicely into the middle hole, leaving the original hole on the right for a high-beam led indicator. I call them blinkers because they are led and are instant on/off compared to the slower tungsten winkers.
The new silicon bridge, heat sink and blinker relay are mounted into the old selenium rectifier bracket. I use green masking tape to remind me of stuff to do--in this case to tidy up a bit of cable sheathing.
Ugly Betty
IMHO Wilf, use the central hole in the headlamp for a hi-beam indicator and get an OE neutral eye for the proper place. If the hi-beam ind is too bright it can be easily padded out with a resistor. I've stuck a hi-bright red occulting LED in my speedo hi-beam ind so it looks like a security system is fitted; it's connected between battery +ve and the ignition (black wire) circuit so that the cathode (-ve) is picked up via an ignition coil when the key is OFF. This means that the LED only blinks in the key-off positions. Current draw is micro-amps.
My underseat needs some titivating, but it works. I'm not happy unless I have something to worry about! I bought a complete triple-tree early last year, only to re-study my manuals and, to my horror, discovered that my '61 frame would have been fitted with 38mm fork legs; the triple-tree I'd bought was a 34.5mm! Bugger!! I then found a stem on eBay; 38mm. So, let's get that one then! I sold the entire triple-tree -- you know, the one that I bought last year? -- to a really nice buyer on eBay about 10 days ago. New member here now, too. So I pulled the front off last Saturday to replace my steering stem / bottom yoke; my existing yoke has had its steering lock boss ground off. Attack, attack; had the entire steered element stripped off and strewn about the garage in an orderly fashion in 45mins. Oh dear! I have 34.5mm fork legs! The previous resto, in around '96, was even more of a mish mosh than I originally thought. Thankfully, Simon has offered to send the one that I just sent him back to me, as he only wants the damper components. Luck or what? Interestingly, my steering stem is fitted with tapered rollers. And, incidentally, the front wheel makes a good, stable chock!!
Steve...with respect to the neutral indicator placement...I may yet go the more original route. I configured it this way out of practical considerations: I happened to have a green lens that fit the larger diameter middle hole; I needed to get a neutral light in place to be able to ride it at least a couple times before winter; and the front and centre location was going to be more visible to me as I tried to get used to shifting (I've only ridden a CT90 with centrifugal clutch and rotary shift pattern). So I went with I had at the time.
The centre hole isn't stock anyway, so I had already lost out in that regard. Neither are my led winkers and brake/tail light and new rectifier. I'm trying to preserve as much as I can about this bike, but with an eye to safety and practicality, so I am prepared for a few compromises, hopefully very minor. You have a nice, clean and safe looking battery compartment! When I first got interested in radio (10 or 11 years old, I guess), I used to borrow the Radio Amateur's Handbook from the library and marvel at the layout and lacing of the wiring, and I still do enjoy a neat, safe wiring job. IMHO, IMO works fine for me--no need for the 'H'. It was time to check out the oil filter and clutch. When I pulled off the filter cover the filter came out with it. A look inside revealed a bunch of surface rust and I almost didn't want to go any further.
The bottom of the left cover had a fair amount of black sludge but no shrapnel, a hopeful sign. This was my first look at the drive chain and clutch and things didn't look terribly bad, so I turned my attention back to the oil filter... Two things struck me immediately: there was no thrust washer between the slinger and the knock pin (and I couldn't find it in the bottom of the case, so the PO must have left it out), and the knock pin had somehow worn its way past the original cutout in the filter cover. The shaft was pretty tough to separate from the slinger and showed too much wear for my liking. Now there were three parts to ask Fred about. Inside the slinger was a mess of twisted o-ring and sludge...I don't think it had been cleaned in some time. With a new (used) cover plate, filter shaft and thrust washer, the filter now spun freely on the shaft. The clutch pressure plate came off nicely, but the plates themselves came out of the basket as a unit, all rusted together. I carefully separated them, cleaned all the rust off and put them back in. The two clutch wires had been removed at one time, so I wondered how easy it was going to be to shift gears.
Wilf
That's a tasty looking bike you've created. My CL72 was seized and I took the dremel to a cam chain link to free the head. Never even thought to take a peek through the tensioner tunnel. That was genius combined with a substantial piece of luck! My bores were already at +2mm so I'm on the lookout for a fresh barrel or may have to use the +3 pistons I found...... Enjoy that project! G '60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F Thanks, G.
I think it was more desperation than genius...it was the only other place I could look for the link, and I couldn't believe my luck when I saw it there! I just got my new advancer springs and timing chain today so maybe this weekend I'll get a chance to put things back together again. Wilf
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
